Pittwater Online News

Summer in Pittwater: places to stay, ways to play: 1880 to 1950 - some History

Little boy fishing on Narrabeen Bridge (beach end one) from Album 'Narrabeen camp war workers holiday', picture taken 26 January 1944 / photographed by Alec Iverson, Item: SLNSW_FL9550120 courtesy Mitchell Library, State Library of New South Wales and Courtesy ACP Magazines Ltd. Taken for, but not used in, Article:  WAR WORKERS ON HOLIDAY, Pix Volume 13, No.6, February 5 1944  Retrieved from http://nla.gov.au/nla.obj-479760111

Summer in Pittwater is a peak ‘Season’, where the Barrenjoey peninsula, from Narrabeen to Palm Beach, becomes a place hosting thousands of visitors and holiday makers enjoying the best place on earth. Permanent residents are either taking to the beach and estuary at dawn or returning at dusk to have an hour or two of uncrowded water, bush and sand, or keeping a protective eye on visitors, and coming to their rescue when called to. 

Although Pittwater was stated from the late 1860's on as the bound to be successful location of a 'future resort', and thousands of excursionists visited year round on paddle steamers and later, ferries, it was those making A Run to Pittwater aboard their own vessels or as a fleet from a yacht club, who then stayed aboard their yachts, that began the exodus to Pittwater from Sydney during Summer. 

Once places people could stay in were built that the shift from being a food bowl for Sydney, and farmland, towards what would become a holiday area that offered the quieter waters of an estuary and lagoon, beaches and bushland, and abutting a National Park,  a Summer in Pittwater became the break to have.

From Boxing Day on Pittwater Regattas brought crowds to the estuary. The first Pittwater Regatta was run in 1888, and aimed at bringing people into the area. The Basin Regattas of the 1890’s, led by the Royal Sydney Yacht Squadron with events for local fishermen when Pittwater was still mainly a farming and fishing food bowl for the colony of Sydney Town, continued this aquatics fun focus, including the RSYS looking at local sites for their 'Pittwater chapter'.

In 1906 two boys from Bayview, John Roche and P T Taylor's eldest son, William Donald Mawney Taylor, 'Don' Taylor, had a little race up the estuary and around Lion Island against a pair of Queenslanders, the Crouch brothers, and the love of sailing or rowing, and doing so competitively, shifted further down the estuary and attracted thousands by the time the post-WWI 1920's and Pittwater Regattas of the 1930's were taking place - the contrast between those struggling during this decade financially and those able on host visitors on yachts and motor launches featured in all Sydney newspapers - also came with pictures that show the still open fields in the background and the holiday homes now dotting the hills among the farm sheds. 

Visitors went from camping at The Basin to ‘taking a cottage’ for a week, even during cooler months, or taking up the option of a boarding house, such as The Rock Lily, Collin’s Retreat, later Scotts’ ‘Bay View House’, on Crystal Bay and within a few years, the Newport Hotel, and then the Narrabeen Hotel, or the Mona Vale beachfront resort community envisioned in George Brock's 'The Oaks', although he did not benefit from all his hard work. 

PITTWATER. 

How this pleasant picturesque watering-places is advancing is well indicated by the opening of a telegraph station there the Saturday before Christmas, 'Our bachelor' and myself intended to be present at the ceremony. We were prevented by the temporary suspension of the vehicular traffic between Manly and there, owing to the supply not being equal to the demand. The extra demand on that day from visitors to Newport and holiday parties taxed the resources of the Manly coach proprietors; but by the exercise of a little patience and with the loss of a little time all were accommodated. 

The road between the lagoon at Manly and Dee Woy Lagoon has been stripped of many of its charms. Formerly it was like a woody winding line odoriferous as a flower garden at dewy eve or early morn ; now it is tame and treeless, here and there shorn of most of its glory by bush vandals and land jobbers. 

There are four public-house between Manly and Newport, two of which, I believe, have been built since the unemployed were set to work at Frenchs Forest and Narrabeen. How the tenants and owners of the houses can make a living is a mystery. Perhaps their owners are far-seeing men, who have speculated in anticipation of the Pittwater tramway (the bill for which was lately passed) being constructed.

When we arrived at Pittwater harbour the day was declining, but the gala remained in all its glitter. Mr. Cracknell, who performed the opening ceremony had departed with some others for Sydney ; but the notabilities of the locality were in no hurry to leave, having their gondolas at hand to convey them home. 

A few years have made a great change in Pittwater. The western shore of the harbour is all under cultivation. Fruit trees of all kinds flourish there, and some vegetables can be produced a fortnight earlier than around Sydney. Fish is abundant in the harbour. We assisted at three hauls of the net of our host, Mr. Bulfin. 'Our bachelor' and another gentleman donned fishing garb for the occasion, put their shoulders to the wheel, or rather to the ropes and towed very well indeed for amateurs. Our labours were attended with but moderate success. 

There is much inquiry for land in Pittwater now, the prospect of the tramway thither doubtless stimulating it. Scotland Island, in the middle of the harbour, area about 150 acres, has been sold to a Melbourne company for £2,500.There is some speculation as to what they are going to do with it. The impression prevails that it is to be utilized for a marine public resort. 

It was also said down there that a  that a well-known gentleman on the North Shore intends building a large marine hotel on the eastern shore of the harbour, between Stokes's Point and the new wharf. It is a very eligible site if trade could be commanded; but that, no doubt, would come to a well-conducted house. 

A place there would be easy of access from the harbour, the new wharf affording facilities for landing found nowhere else in the Pittwater peninsula. The largest excursion steamers can come alongside it in all weathers, there being a depth of over 18 feet at low water. 

The romantic marine retreat of the late lamented Mr. Dalley on Cabbagetree beach, underlying Bilgola head on the Pacific shore, has been purchased by Mr. Jackson. Mr. J. M. Taylor, our bachelor (so designated from having obtained his B.A. degree as an evening student at the University the morning of our visit), was delighted with Pittwater. As a holiday retreat he would prefer it to the mountains principally because 'There is a society where none intrudes By the deep sea, and music in its roar.'  C. B. PITTWATER. (1889, January 12). Freeman's Journal (Sydney, NSW : 1850 - 1932), p. 17. Retrieved from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article115380870

Later premises along the 'restaurants you could also stay at' line were La Corniche and then The Pasadena Road House at Church Point, Barrenjoey House at Palm Beach, and Jonah's, overlooking Whale Beach. Many of these would provide entertainment in the form of music and cabaret 

Between the early 'hotels' were boarding houses such as The Green Frog at Church Point, later there were the Palm Beach House and then Florida House at Palm Beach, Ocean Beach House at Newport and Ocean House at Narrabeen - both on the beachfront - as just a few examples of what was available.

One who stayed in a for hire Pittwater cottage in the early 1900's describes:

PITTWATER.

I will write and tell you about a delightful holiday Flo and I had a few weeks ago. We had grown rather tired of the Mountains, and thought a seaside place would be a change, so at last we decided on Pittwater. We started one Friday afternoon, and, catching the 3 o'clock boat to Manly, reached it in plenty of time for the Pittwater coach, which left Manly shortly after 4 o'clock, and arrived at Pittwater in time for dinner. 

Although we had a 12 miles' drive by coach, still we did not find it a tiresome one, for the road was good all the way; besides, the scenery was so beautiful. All along the route there was something interesting to look at. 

Now we were passing through a forest of tall trees and beautiful cabbage-tree palms, and wild flowers growing in great profusion; and then suddenly we were confronted in all its grandeur by the ocean itself. And so on we drove, until Church Point, which is as far as the coach goes, was reached, and we found ourselves on the shores of Pittwater. 

CHURCH   POINT   IN   1904.  

We had made arrangements beforehand as to what coach we would come down by, so we weren't surprised on leaving the coach to find a small motor launch waiting to convey us to our destination. 

Above: Barretts' launch at Newport, Dated: circa 31/12/1908, Digital ID: 18526_a024_000028, courtesy State Records of NSW

After about 10 minutes in the launch we entered a pretty little bay surrounded almost by mountains, and picturesquely situated on the side of one of these was the cottage which was to be our abode for the next ten days. 

Next morning we awoke early and made a tour of inspection, and were delighted with the place, for, besides having nice orchards, cows, poultry, plenty of milk, eggs, cream, and oysters, we discovered a bathing-place securely fenced off and boats if we cared to fish or row. 

After break-fast the little launch in which we had come across in the previous evening, and which belonged to the house, was waiting at the pier to take us to see some of the beauty spots round about. That morning we went up as far as the Barrenjoey Heads, which are the entrance to it from the ocean side. On the South Head is the famous Barrenjoey lighthouse. Then we went round Lion Island into Brisbane Water, on to the mouth of the Hawkesbury River, and on our way back landed at Barrenjoey to inspect the light-house, and thence homewards, after having spent a most enjoyable day. 

Next day we went in quite an opposite direction, and soon found ourselves in the Kuring-gai Chase. Leaving the launch, we followed the path up the mountain. At first we anticipated rather a dreadful climb, but soon the beauty of the flowers and ferns attracted our attention, and so onward we pressed until the summit was reached. 

Lovett Bay and the Ku-Ring-Gai Chase Trust built causeway and the Trusts' launch, circa 1901-05. Image No.: a4367001h, courtesy State Library of NSW

Sitting down, we gazed on the surrounding scene — one of the most glorious I had ever looked upon. Down beneath us was the water sparkling like diamonds in the Summer sunshine, and jutting out into it a large isthmus richly clothed in all its beautiful verdure and foliage; whilst studded here and there among the trees were tiny cottages. Then further on Church Point, and Scotland Island appeared; and still further on Bayview and Newport. 

And so our days were spent exploring new places, picnicking, and fishing, until at last the morning came for our departure homewards. And it was rather unwillingly that we bade farewell to beautiful Pittwater. Our board, which was very good indeed, cost us 30s a week; and as there were two of us, and we stayed ten days, it came to £4 6s, a slight reduction being made for staying over the week. The coach journey cost 6s return for the two or us, and out fares by tram and ferry 1s each, making in all £4 14s. This covered everything excepting tips, but as everyone has his or her idea on that subject I thought it best to leave that item out.— CONSTANCE (Enmore).  PITTWATER. (1906, December 23). Sunday Times (Sydney, NSW : 1895 - 1930), p. 4 (The Sunday Times Magazine Section). Retrieved from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article126553173

Within a few decades this became ‘taking a summer house’ or buying a block of land and building one at at Palm Beach, Careel Bay, Avalon, Narrabeen, Bayview and Mona Vale for a week or two or the whole ‘Season’ – many of these places the weekenders or Pittwater Summer Houses of some of Sydney’s then most successful doctors, industrialists, dam-builders, inventors and department store owners. 

See: The First Weekenders On The Palm Beach Beachfront + A Look Into Palm Beach SLSC Clubhouses In The Club's 101st Season  

These doyens of Sydney bought into Palm Beach from the 1912 land subdivisions on – all sold under the auspices of escaping the dusty hot town of Sydney during the hotter months to dwell in a place still untouched where they may connect with the green and blue and indulge in ‘surf bathing’ amid cool sea breezes or sail on the estuary while camping out on houseboats, steamers and their own yachts.

For others there was the tram that brought them to the edge of Narrabeen Lagoon. This was followed by motor camps and tent camp sites, and even those camping on a block of land they had bought, and ordered not to by the then Warringah Shire Council.

The Warringah Shire Council has received complaints about the crowded condition of the camping areas at Palm Beach. On some blocks more than 60 persons are living. Over 20,000 persons visit the beach on fine Sundays. What will it be like in five years' time? VISUALISING THE CAMPERS' PARADISE (1930, January 15). The Sun (Sydney, NSW : 1910 - 1954), p. 13 (LAST RACE EDITION). Retrieved fromhttp://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article226022076

RECORD CROWDS. BEACHES THRONGED.

Trunks Generally Favoured by Bathers.
More than 100,000 people visited Sydney beaches yesterday. Five out of every six men bathed in trunks, in spite of regulations, and thousands of people travelled from their homes, on buses and trams, in shorts or playsuits over bathers, and dispensed with dressing sheds.
Figures for all beaches, based on turnstile figures at Coogee. Bondi, and Manly, where attendances reached record figures, were as follows:
Bondi . 30.000 Manly . 27,000  Coogee . 15,300 Bronte . 9,000  Clovelly . 8,000 Nielsen Park . 12,000 Balmoral . 9,000 Maroubra . 6,000 Palm Beach. 4,000 Newport 4,000 Deewhy . 4,000 Collaroy 5.000  From the point of view of styles In beach wear and beach customs, the day set a new standard in modernity.

THE SPEED LIMIT.
The 30 mile an hour speed limit did not apparently inconvenience the traffic to and from the beaches. Motorists in general seemed i to be travelling at the usual pace. 
Clear skies and a fresh breeze early in the morning roused people from their beds, eager to get down to the beaches before the weather changed. Most of the beaches close to the city were crowded early in the morning. By 11 a.m. a steady stream of traffic was beginning to move out to the farther beaches.

PALM BEACH POPULAR. 

Palm Beach was a popular goal for holiday-makers. Its usual holiday population of house parties was amplified this Christmas by an even larger colony of trailers and camping motorists. Every site on the camping reserve was occupied. Some of the trailers and caravans were of remarkable design.

The scene, with the surrounding green country, the rich coloured sand, the gay parties of sunburnt people in bright swimming costumes under rainbow sunshades, and the background Of white and blue surf, was like something out of a well-produced revue.

Here, one felt, the holiday was more than a chance to Iie in the sun and swim in the surf. It was a fashion parade as well, and it was Sydney's first massed gala parade In the world's most, modern costumes.

ROLLICKING SURF.
By midday a brisk breeze had worked up a rollicking surf all along the coast. Rubber floats were at a premium. All the morning at Palm Beach, Newport, Avalon, and Deewhy, a steady Stream of traffic kept bringing more surfers. They arrived in every form of conveyance; there was even an odd sulky here and there on the road. There were several open lorries, their rattling boards populated by families out to have a good time at any price. There were cyclists by the hundred. Motor cycles flashed through the traffic with girls in shorts bouncing on the pillions. There were cars that could hardly crawl up the hills filled to capacity with family parties and everybody's luggage strung on the back. There were sleek, high-powered cars dashing In subversive spurts of 60 miles an hour through the 30-mile speed limit areas.
RECORD CROWDS. (1937, December 27). The Sydney Morning Herald (NSW : 1842 - 1954), p. 7. and p.10 photographs: (Titles: Young Campers at Palm Beach had diversion at cards and Above: one of many picnic parties on the road to Palm Beach) Retrieved from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article17439253

Even for those not made homeless during the Great economic Depression of the 1930’s, Pittwater attracted thousands for their spot of sand on a local beach or aboard everything from a tinny to a cruiser on the estuary or camping out at The Basin. With the advent of a public transport system where they could catch a bus and then ferry, or all pile into a truck and head to Pittwater to camp out in cars or in these campsites, and experience that ‘democracy on the sand’, Pittwater became the place to be.

They Pay up to 25 Gns. a Week for Houses—   But You Can Live in  a Garage for £6 a Week  

This Bungalow beside the beach has been rented this season by the Warwick Fairfaxes. Rent is 25 guineas a week. Palm Beach is, for a house like this, £10 a week dearer than Collaroy, which is next in line socially among the northern Sydney beaches. Top rent at Collaroy is 15 guineas a week at height of the season.  

Garages Like This have been let for £6 a week at Palm Beach surfside.  

Other Palm Beachers stay aboard yachts and luxury cruisers such as this one, Toomerie, owned by H. P.  Christmas, managing  director of Woolworth’s.  

Beautiful Vacation Homes include “Kalua,” the lovely house and  grounds of Mrs. Alfred J. Hordern, which overlooks Palm Beach.  

Glorious garden has 96 varieties of hydrangeas. A. J. Hordern nearly bought, years ago, the whole beach frontage land. Hordern Park adjoins the property shown. It is a gift to picnickers. 

Figure in white in the grounds is Mrs. A. J. Hordern.  Miss Carmen Hordern, charming young member of  noted family, at the front verandah of “Kalua,” which  is furnished in colorful seaside style, Playsuit and sandals Miss Hordern is wearing are generally favored by attractive young Palm Beach socialites.  

High Life at Night, Page 6 (over).  (1938). Pix Retrieved from http://nla.gov.au/nla.obj-469385139 Pix. Volume 1, no. 1 (29 January 1938), p. 5

A few more from that  the Album 'Palm Beach, December 1 1937 and January 6 1938' and photographed by Ray Olson, more photos of Kalua and Hordern Park. These are Pix magazine photographs, and 'taken or published in 1937 and 1938', courtesy Mitchell Library, State Library of New South Wales and courtesy ACP Magazines Ltd.

Something good to eat

Where the best milk is; who had the healthiest cows, while fathers shared where the most sheltered and affordable camping spot can be found, where the oysters were and when the fish or prawns will be running and hired out themselves and their boats to take them to these piscatorial grounds.

James Wheeler's sense of ownership of the lagoon and all in it surfaces shows up even before the first bridge across the Narrabeen lagoon had been built:

The case against Joseph Forester and George Sly for a breach of the Fisheries Act Amendment Act, 81 Vic, No. 10, section _, was resumed at the Water Police Court, yesterday, before Messrs. Marsh and Field. Water police constable Turner gave evidence corroborative of that of constable Skinner, and sketches of the lagoon wore produced. Mr. J. M. Curtis, for the defendants, took an objection that Narrabeen Lagoon, where the offence was alleged to have been committed, was not an estuary according to the real definition of the term; but the Board overruled the objection. The point had been decided in a previous case in the affirmative. Mr. Curtis also raised the question of title. Mr. Wheeler was the owner of the lagoon, and the defendants were employed by him, and had a perfect right to fish in the lagoon with any sized nets they chose to use. At this stage the case was again postponed for a week. NEWS OF THE DAY. (1880, December 10). The Sydney Morning Herald (NSW : 1842 - 1954), p. 5. Retrieved from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article13484199

The Fisheries Act referred to in the above item stems from:

THE FISHERIES BILL.

The following is the bill, brought in by Mr L. L. Smith and Mr Nicholson, for the purpose of amending the law for the protection of the fisheries of the colony of Victoria : —Whereas, it is expedient to amend the law for the protection of the fisheries in the waters of Victoria. Be it therefore enacted by the Queen's Most Excellent Majesty, by and with the advice and consent of the Legislative Council, and Legislative Assembly of Victoria, in this present Parliament assembled, and by the authority of the same, as follows, that is to say —I. An Act passed in the twenty-second year of her present Majesty’s reign, intituled 'An Act for the Protection of the Fisheries of Victoria,' shall be and is hereby repealed. II. That, for the purposes of this act, the year shall be equally divided into winter and summer months, whereof the winter months shall comprise the period extending from and inclusive of the first day of April to and inclusive of the thirtieth day of September, and the summer months shall comprise the period from and inclusive of the first day of October to and inclusive of the thirty-first day of March in every year. III. It shall not be lawful for any person, during the said winter months in any year, to use in any bay, estuary, or other inflexion of the sea, or in any river in Victoria, for the purpose of catching any fish therein, any net or nets the centre of which shall exceed ten fathoms in length, and the meshes in the bunt of which shall be less than one inch or whereof each wing shall exceed ten fathoms in length, and the meshes of which respectively shall be leas than one inch and a half inch, and the meshes of the remainder whereof shall be less than one inch and three-quarters of an inch; nor during the said Summer months in any year to use, for the purpose aforesaid, any net or nets the meshes in the bunt of which shall be less than one inch and three-quarters of an inch, and whereof the meshes in the remainder shall be less than two inches: and it shall not be lawful for any person, at any time, to fix or stake any net within one mile of the shore, or at the mouth of any river, and any person committing any such offence shall on conviction in a summary manner before any two justices of the peace forfeit and pay a penalty not exceeding five pounds; and such justices may order every such net or any portion thereof to be destroyed. IV. Every person using any net in any of the waters aforesaid for catching fish for the purpose of sale or barter, shall once in every year register his name, place of residence, and every place where he shall intend to keep any such net or nets, with the clerk of petty sessions which shall be holden nearest to the place at which such person shall so reside ; and for every such registration the fee of one shilling shall be paid to such clerk of petty sessions, who shall thereupon give such person a certificate in the form contained in the schedule hereto. V. If any person shall catch or attempt to catch any fish for sale or barter, as aforesaid, without having obtained such certificate, as herein provided, every such person being duly convicted thereof before any two justices, in a summary manner, shall forfeit and pay a penalty not exceeding £5.VI. And be it enacted that any person who shall feel aggrieved by any fine or penalty, where the fine, forfeiture, and costs shall exceed the sum of £5, may appeal against the same to the Court of Quarter Sessions, according to the provisions of the law which shall be in force for the time being, for the general regulation, of appeals of such or the like nature. VII. This Act shall commence I hereby certify that A. B. his this day registered with me his name, place of residence, and places where he intends to keep a net, for the purpose of catching fish within Victoria, as under, namely : Places where nets are. Name. Residence. to be kept. And further, that the said A. B. has also paid the sum of one shilling for such registration. Dated . 18 Clerk of Petty Sessions. THE FISHERIES BILL. (1862, May 5). The Age (Melbourne, Vic. : 1854 - 1954), p. 5. Retrieved from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article154847523

In New South Wales the protection of oysters against net and nets being dragged in their beds frames:

A BILL FOR THE REGULATION OF OYSTER FISHERIES.

Whereas it is expedient to promote the growth of oysters and the improvement of oyster fisheries Be it therefore enacted by the Queen's Most Excellent Majesty by and with the advice and consent of the Legislative Council and Legislative Assembly of New South Wales in Parliament assembled and by the authority of the e & me as follows : -

1. It shall be lawful for any person under a lease from the Governor which he may with the advice of the Executive Council grant for any term not exceeding years as shall be thought fit to form or lay down any artificial oyster bed or to improve any natural oyster bed on the shore adjacent to any Crown lands bordering on the sea or any estuary-and also for the owner or occupier of any lands bordering on the sea or any estuary under a like lease or for any other person with the consent in writing of such occupier and under a like lease-to improve form or lay down any such oyster bed on the shore adjacent to such lands And every such lease shall set forth the boundaries and limits of the oyster bed leased thereby and shall be in or to the effect of the schedule hereto.

2. Every person holding any such lease his executors administrators and assigns paying towards the Consolidated Revenue Fund such yearly rent for the same as the Governor with the like advice shall by such lease reserve shall hold the same as tenant for the term so granted and subject to this Act shall be entitled to use or sell all oysters the produce of such bed-but the holding of such bed shall not give any exclusive right or title to the occupation of the shore or sea ground except for the purposes of this Act nor interrupt the free exercise and enjoyment of any other light possessed by any other person in or along such shore or sea ground.

3. Every person who shall wilfully interfere with or remove oysters from oyster beds so under lease without the consent of the lessee shall be liable to a penalty not exceeding fifty pounds and shall in addition thereto pay to the lessee such sum not exceeding fifty pounds as shall appear to the convicting Justices a reasonable compensation for any injury done.

4. Every person except the lessee or some person acting under his written authority who shall within the limits assigned by any such lease by any means take or catch any oysters or oyster brood or dredge for oysters or oyster brood or use any oyster dredge or any net instrument or engine for the purpose of taking or catching oysters or oyster brood although nonesuch shall be actually taken-or with any net instrument or engine drag upon the ground or soil of any oyster bed so under lease shall be liable to a penalty not exceeding ---pounds.

6. Every person who shall during the months of January October November or December in any year sell or offer for sale any oysters shall be liable for every such offence to a penalty not exceeding ------- pounds.

All penalties under this Act may be recovered in a summary manner before any two Justices and all sums by way of compensation there under may be recovered and payment thereof may be enforced in like manner as any such penalty.

7. One half part of every penalty imposed under this Act shall be paid to the informant unless compensation shall have been awarded to him under this Act and the other half part or the whole as the case may be shall be paid into the Consolidated Revenue Fund.

8. Every conviction or order against any person under this Act shall be a full release to him from any other proceeding civil or criminal for the same cause' and may be pleaded in bar of such proceeding.

9. Every person convicted of a second or subsequent offence against this Act shall be liable at the discretion of the convicting Justices and on their order to forfeit any lease or permission granted under this Act and shall thereupon become incapable of holding any like lease or permission for five years.

10. This Act shall be styled and maybe cited as the “Oyster Fisheries Act of 1862." A BILL FOR THE REGULATION OF OYSTER FISHERIES. (1862, May 30). The Sydney Morning Herald (NSW : 1842 - 1954), p. 2. Retrieved from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article13229398

This image is from a leather photograph album dating to the late 1800s (circa 1880). The album contains sepia prints of a voyage from Melbourne to Sydney on SS ARAMAC as well as various sights around Sydney Harbour and the Hawkesbury River. The provenance of the album and the identity of the photographer is unknown. - from the collection of and courtesy of the Australian National Maritime Museum: Object number 00036455_25

Section from: Panorama of Taylors Point with real estate sign advertising upcoming land subdivision, Pittwater, New South Wales [picture] circa 1921, image no: nla.pic-vn6149436, courtesy National Library of Australia

There is also some indication in this December 1880 mention of ongoing disputes between George Sly and James Wheeler that people were beginning to realise that the lagoon can, with so many fishing with large nets, be reduced of fish as a resource for catching and move past a point of recovery for fish abundance in future seasons too. Lagoons, the nurseries of so many aquatic crustaceans, molluscs and fish, are vital for all they are connected to. 

The shift towards commercialisation also meant the beds were placed off limits to people who lived here or who may have holidayed in the area or came here as excursionists to fish and 'oyster', as shown in many of the old articles we've run on steamers visiting the area where the mention of 'parties fishing successfully' frequently appears. At Narrabeen the resource had been reduced so much bans were put in place and renewed annually:

Oysters. — For the term of one year from the date hereof the natural oyster beds in the Narrabeen Lagoon, county of Cumberland, are closed. Government Gazette. (1879, May 24). The Sydney Mail and New South Wales Advertiser (NSW : 1871 - 1912), p. 817. Retrieved from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article162808811 

OYSTER BEDS.— By proclamation the natural,  oyster beds within the Narrabeen Lagoon, county of Cumberland, are closed for the term of one year. Government Gazette. (1880, May 26). Evening News (Sydney, NSW : 1869 - 1931), p. 3. Retrieved from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article108733312 

Prawning at Narrabeen Lagoon, particularly when the mouth of the lagoon is opened to the sea, has taken place across over a hundred years and several generations of locals and visitors:

A Valuable Prawn Fishery.-Mr. H. Fanning, one of the members of the Fisheries Board, sought yesterday to induce the board to re-open Narrabeen Lake to prawning during the summer. He submitted a statement by letter to the effect that the value of the prawns netted in the lake during 1907 was £565, and he gave the names of those who had participated in the hauls. But Mr. Fanning received a shock when the secretary of the department, Mr. J. A. Brodie, pointed out that two of the names given as amongst the principal sharers in the wealth of the lake were not the holders of Fishing licenses during 1907. Mr. Fanning subsided, and the board decided to secure further information, possibly with a view to the prosecution or those who had netted without a license. The lake last year yielded a moderate quantity of prawns to amateur parties, who used small hand scoop-nets to secure the crustaceans, but towards the close of the summer hardly a prawn could be caught, and It was the opinion of many who live near the lake or who visit it for week-ends that the supply had been greatly reduced. INTERSTATE PRODUCE TRADE. (1909, August 24). The Sydney Morning Herald (NSW : 1842 - 1954), p. 6. Retrieved from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article15093684

Remarkable Scene. When the waters of the Narrabeen Lake were opened to the sea on Sunday by volunteer workers and the men of the local shire council, some remarkable scenes were witnessed. There was an immense volume of water in the lake, and when the channel was cut with shovels the outrush of water tore a wider channel along which thousands of fish were hurried to the sea. Many mullet about 18 inches long leaped high out of the water as they neared the spray of the waves of the ocean beach, their object being to avoid the attacks of huge tailer, which were waiting for them outside the bar. The tailer came right up into the wave roll to take the fish from the lake, and snapped viciously at their prey. Men rushed into the current and threw hundreds of fish out on to the sand with prawn nets and their hands. One sportsman grabbed a mullet at the same time as a tailor, and each got half the fish. Another man had a tailer seize his coat, and he emerged from the channel with the fish hanging to it Whiting proved the most elusive fish to catch, but the mullet wore bewildered, and were easily secured with the hand by hundreds  of people on the lake beach and in the channel entrance. MINES AND RAILWAYS. (1910, March 15). The Sydney Morning Herald (NSW : 1842 - 1954), p. 6. Retrieved fromhttp://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article15153991

Prawners at Narrabeen have made an early start at the sport, which is usually only engaged in during the summer. The crustaceans made their appearance a week or two ago, and people were soon out for them at night with fine meshed scoop nets and lamps. The lake is now cut off from the sea by the usual sand bar, but a good body of water is showing. A shark was harpooned near the bridge a couple of weeks ago. This is the first record of a shark in the lake. ANGLING. (1911, October 4). The Sydney Morning Herald (NSW : 1842 - 1954), p. 9. Retrieved from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article15279201 

To have access to a feast table  – not just the fishing but a place of open fields outside the bush areas where visitors could purchase farm gate milk, have bread and meat delivered via horse and cart or boat - was part and parcel of what made Summer in Pittwater a healthy place to be.

In the 1920’s these smaller farmlets offered through the office of Sunter and MacKenzie, with offices at the Tram Terminus, Narrabeen, lends us an insight into what these by then established small acreages were growing and offering: 

FARMS AT NARRABEEN FOR SALE (1923, June 12). Goulburn Evening Penny Post (NSW : 1881 - 1940), p. 4 (EVENING). Retrieved from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article102875519 

Ways to Play

Even though European colonists bathed in saltwater as a means to keep clean from the outset of settlers living here, it wasn't until formalised permission to swim for fun, first at Manly, and then everywhere, and prescribed neck to knee bathing suits to maintain a veneer of proprietary, that the boon of water sports, and the cooling dip in the ocean among refreshing sea breezes only experienced on the coast, established over 120 years ago what all take for granted today.

The air is free, the waters open to all also. 

Manly Council was among the first to protect surf bathers, employing two fishermen, the Sly brothers, to patrol offshore in one of the first versions of a surfboat, and, in 1905, employed a lifeguard, Edward ‘Happy’ Eyre.

The 1920's New Years Eve parties held by the Royal Motor Yacht Club were synonymous with living an aquatic life during Summer. The same parties, hosted by Palm Beach SLSC during the 1930's, were major fundraisers for this surf club. Organised by early lady surfer Alrema Samuels (nee Becke), whose father, the popular early Australian adventure writer Louis Becke would have witnessed surfing at Fiji during his sojourns between the Pacific Islands, New Zealand and Australia in the 1880’s, these additions to the Pittwater Summer calendar, although used by some news outlets to cast aspersions on Palm Beach visitors, or undermine what these volunteers were doing, in giving up their Summers to keep others safe, simply brought more visitors to Palm Beach to try and see these people and their antics taking place.

One of Palm Beach SLSC’s founding members Adrian Curlewis, the ‘father of surf lifesaving in Australia’ and President of SLSA from 1934 to 1975, (with the exception of four years’ service during WWII as a POW) gave all the idea of ‘swim between the flags’ at a patrolled beach, (if we can’t see you we can’t save you) while the club itself, during this same 1930’s era, championed using surfboards as lifesaving equipment. These boards are now a feature of every patrol Season on every Australian beach.

This had been preceded in the 1923/4 Season with Patrol signs developed. Blue and white = safe. Red flags = danger.  

This 1930’s evolvement of the 1920’s ‘watching society’ aspect to local newspapers, with some of these ‘weekenders’ ‘society’ filled at Palm Beach, Careel Bay, Clareville, Newport, Mona Vale and Elanora Heights marking the previously all-bush terrain with large villas, and contrasting sharply with those who had been made homeless and were camping, in some cases, at sites from Palm Beach to Scotland Island, Clareville and Manly where they could at least put a canvas roof over the head of loved family members and catch fish with which to feed them and join the work gangs building pools and roads locally.

Mothers shared tips on where the safest places for little feet to paddle, 

Australia's fascination with flying, which commenced at North Narrabeen with George Taylor making the first official flight, became a means to make a show of these during the Pittwater Regattas of the 1930's and offer joy flights on the Narrabeen lagoon itself during a drought period, and even being able to do this at Palm Beach. 

Aeroplane giving rides at Narrabeen Lagoon, 1 January 1929, Image of Ireland Meteor aircraft with crowd of spectators - photos courtesy Mitchell Library, State Library of New South Wales

AEROPLANE TRIPS AT NARRABEEN.

The dry bed of the Narrabeen Lagoon makes an admirable taking-off and landing-place for aeroplanes, and during the holidays many hundreds of people experienced the fascination of a short trip through the air in charge of a careful and capable pilot. Holiday Scenes at the Seaside (1929, January 2). Sydney Mail (NSW : 1912 - 1938), p. 38. Retrieved from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article166259205

Here too the first surf lifesaving carnivals took place, showcasing the skills and knowledge through a series of events that demonstrated how people who consider themselves quite ordinary rose to do acts that were extraordinary, and saved lives. Imagine learning, like an Olympic athlete, how to swim or paddle so you can negotiate the channels and rips to quickly reach a person drowning, or learn the knowledge and skill of how to, like a nurse or a doctor, resuscitate someone who has had a heart attack or stopped breathing because their lungs are full of water.

These carnivals became and remain features of the surf lifesaving ‘Season’ when volunteers are on patrol on our beaches; these too raised funds to buy the equipment and pay for the first aid courses that would save more lives, and have been doing so until this present day, over 120 years on.

First PBSLSC Bronze examinations and Members squad, 1922. Standing (l to r) Adrian Curlewis, A. Oatley, A. Hopkins, Walter Rayner, C. Larsen, Eric Ayres, p. M. Shaw, Geoffrey Oatley. At Front:  F. Larkin, Harry Ayres, Keith Oatley, B. Ellis, C. Sheedy, Laurie Gallagher, Harry Amplett. Front: Len Palmer and Austin Dellit. Photo: Curlewis family.

Palm Beach SLSC Carnival. This R&R squad competed in the first Surf Carnival to be held at Palm Beach on 1/1/1923 - Adrian is on left at back -  Photo: Philippa Poole, nee Curlewis

The introduction of the board as a surf rescue equipment option can be traced to surfboard happy Palm Beach SLSC, who had among their early membership John 'Jack' Ralston.

Palm Beach early 1930s L-R: C. Shaddock, Lister Ifould, Alrema Samuels, Rex Beale, E. Newman, Richard Mant, Herb Tattesall, John Ralston

Palm Beach 1930s. L-R; ?, ?, John Ralston, Richard Mant, Alrema Samuels, Herb Tattersall, R. Mant, possibly Lister Ifould, ?. Photo is owned by Nicholina Ralston.

Between 1926 and 1929 Palm Beach SLSC members had 16 boards stored at the clubhouse (due to their size and weight of up to 100lbs, with most made from solid American redwood). This surfboard tally was then the highest ratio of surfboard to surf lifesaver at a time when having one built was expensive - expensive to have the work done - then for delivery of something that big and heavy. 

Riders who could surf without ending up 'in hospital due to same' could see the surfboard could be used in rescues. Manly Surf Club joined Palm Beach SLSC calling for them to be used as a device for saving lives in the surf.

At Palm Beach it is John Ralston to whom is attributed the first surfboard riding, possibly on a board obtained from Manly's Claude West:

Adrian Curlewis (later Sir) was, possibly, the second person to ride a surfboard at Palm Beach. Adrian learned surf-board riding from John Ralston, who had the first surfboard at Palm Beach. 

Later he bought his own surfboard for £5. 

"It had belonged to Manly swimmer Claude West, who put an ad. in the paper reading: 'Surfboard for sale. Owner in hospital through using same'," Judge Curlewis told me. - Judge Curlewis has grown up with the century (1951, February 3). The Australian Women's Weekly (1933 - 1982), p. 17. Retrieved from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article51595911

Adrian Curlewis, circa 1930 doing a headstand at Palm Beach - photo courtesy Philippa Poole, daughter of the 'Father of Surf Life Saving'

The story of surf board riding commences at Manly. There remains some contention as to whom brought a surf board here for use as surf life saving equipment, one recorded Surf Life Saving entry holding C D Paterson did as a surf life saving device in 1909, another that a Tom Walker did around the same time.

North Narrabeen can also lay claim to having early surfers among surf life saving members with Toby Hynard, a North Narrabeen SLSC member, apparently being taught board riding by the Duke while on a holiday to Hawaii and had brought a board back to Australia around 1911-12. 

Australian legend of board riding, Snowy McAlister, also remembered someone from Narrabeen having a surfboard around that same time. Stan Exton, a pioneer and Life Member, always maintained that he brought the board to Narrabeen prior to 1915 and that he and his friend Toby used to share it. This is substantiated by a photo taken outside a cottage owned by Stan:

  

photos from and courtesy, The Beach Comes First, North Narrabeen SLSC history

This was followed by:

DUKE KAHANAMOUKU

The marvellous Hawaiian, undisputed champion sprint distance swimmer of the world, some of whose natatorial feats are said to have astounded the fishes, as did the exploits of Pegoud, the French aviator, in the clouds, cause wonderment amongst the birds of the air. He is here seen performing one of his famous surfing accomplishments. This is not by any means his most daring achievement. Whilst dashing forward at an incredible speed, he stands on his head and does other things of an acrobatic description. Similar boards to the one he is shown using have been imported into Australia, but so far none of our surfing experts have been able to imitate his sensational deeds. 

It is supposed, however, that the breakers that roll in on our shores are of a different formation, and not suitable for the purpose. All doubts on that subject would have been set at rest had Kahanamouku visited here this Summer, as was supposed to have been his intention. He has on several occasions expressed his willingness to come, but the time he originally offered to make the trip was regarded as inopportune by the officials of the Swimming Association who were carrying on the negotiations, and they fell through, owing to the date they suggested as a substitute clashing with the great water festival that is to be held at Honolulu on February 18 and 24 next. Visitors from all parts of the world have been known to go to Hawaii merely to witness Kahanamouku shoot the waves in the extraordinary fashion depicted above. DUKE KAHANAMOUKU (1913, December 14). Sunday Times (Sydney, NSW : 1895 - 1930), p. 20 (SUNDAY TIMES GLOBE PICTORIAL). Retrieved from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article126315151 

And he following year, on Christmas Eve, Thursday December 24th, 1914:

SURF-BOARD RIDING.

KAHANAMOKU'S DISPLAY.

At the invitation of the NSW Amateur Swimming Association a number of newspaper representatives, accompanied some of the officials to witness an exhibition of surf-board riding by Duke Paoa Kahanamoku, the worId's champion sprint swimmer, at Freshwater yesterday.

It was Kahanamoku's first attempt at surf-board riding in Australia and it must be admitted it was wonderfully clever. The conditions were against good surf-board riding. The waves were of the "dumping" order and followed closely one on top of the other.

According to the champion, board-riding on the Waikiki Beach, Honolulu is a pleasure, and there it is possible to shoot well over a quarter of a mile. Then, too, Kahanamoku was at a disadvantage with the board. It weighed almost 100lb whereas the board he uses as a rule weighs less than 25lb. But, withal, he gave a magnificent display, which won the cordial applause of the onlookers.

Kahanamoku entered the water with the board accompanied by Mr. W.W. Hill and some members of the Freshwater Surf Club. Lying flat on the board and using his arms like paddles the champion soon left the swimmers far behind. When he was about 400 yards out he waited for a suitable breaker, swung the board round, and came in with it. Once fairly started, Kahanamoku knelt on the board and then stood straight up, the nose of the board being well out of the water.

But the force of the breakers never carried him more than 50 yards. On a couple of occasions he managed to shoot fully 100 yards, and then he cleverly demonstrated what could be done. He turned completely round, then, lying flat on the board, he raised himself on his hands and swung the board from front to back and back to front, finally again standing straight up. If the condition of the water is favourable when Kahanamoku makes his pubIic appearance in surf-board riding in Sydney it is sure to be keenly appreciated.

SURF-BOARD RIDING. (1914, December 25 - Friday). The Sydney Morning Herald (NSW : 1842 - 1954), p. 4. Retrieved from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article15559031

On February 6th, 1915, at Dee Why:

CARNIVAL AT DEE WHY

KAHANAMOKU ATTRACTS THOUSANDS

Deewhy had a day out yesterday. The local surf clubs annual carnival was on, but the big attraction was Duke Kahanamoku, who went down to show the natives how to ride the surf board. The board is as big as the bottom of a boat, and Kahanamoku went out so far on it that the crowd thought he was off to Honolulu. But about half a mile out he suddenly turned caught the breaker, and electrified the audience by kneeling, standing, and upending himself on the board, finishing up by diving a somersault when the breaker broke. On one occasion he disappeared. 'There goes his board, someone shouted. "Thats not his board, said someone else, "that's one of his feet." And so it was. Kahana, etc., kept up these stunts for an hour, and gave a great display. For part of the time he was accompanied by Miss Letham, of Freshwater, an Australian girl swimmer, who, it is said, only comes out of the surf to eat and sleep. On one occasion both swimmers stood riding the board for about two hundred yards. Duke received an ovation at the conclusion of his display. The crowd at the carnival was the biggest that had ever congregated at Deewhy since the inland aboriginals came down to spear fish in the lagoon and dance corroborees round their shell-fish heaps on Long Reef. About four thousand were present. There was a big programme, and the various events were spiritedly contested. The surfing and live-saving events were under the control of the N.S.W. Surf Bathing Association. The days sport was concluded with an open-air concert last night. 

GRAND PARADE AND MARCH PAST. — Dee Why 1, Collaroy 2. THIRD ROUND (Metropolitan Division) RESCUE AND RESUSCITATION COMPETITION FOR 1915 CHAMPION-SHIP PENNANT OF SURF-BATHING ASSOCIATION OF N.S.W. — Bondi A, 57.77 points; Manly A, 57.49 points; Coogee, 56.66 points; North Steyne, 52.83 points; North Bondi, 50.29 points; Bondi B, 49.20 points. NOVICE SURF RACE. — H. V. Rein (Manly) 1, C. D. Bell (Manly) 2. COCK OF THE WALK. — First heat: Narrabeen beat Dee Why B. Second heat: Collaroy beat Balmoral. Third heat: Dee Why A beat Clovelly. Final: Dee Why beat Narrabeen. BEACH RELAY RACE. — First heat: Collaroy 1, Dee Why 2. Second heat: North Steyne 1, Dee Why 2. Third heat: Coogee 1, Narrabeen 2. Final: Collaroy (L. Chimchen, T. V. Smith, A. Sheldon, and L. Sheldon), 1 ; North Steyne (L. E. Goulding, G. Morgan, O. H. C. Merritt, C. W. Whitehead), 2. In this race a collision occurred, necessitating a re-run. The results given are of the re-run. ALARM REEL RACE. — First heat: North Steyne 1, Bondi 2. Second heat: Manly 1, Dee Why 2. Final: Manly (H. M. Hay belt, O. Mater, H. Buhl, S. Bennett, D. West), 1; North Steyne (L. V. Hind belt, F. E. Nicholls, B. McEwan, E. Goulding, N. Thompson), 2. COCKFIGHT. — Balmoral (J. Doudney and C. Walker), 1. SURF BRACE RELAY RACE. — Manly (J. G. Brown and N. Smith), 1; North Steyne (C. Healy and L. Solomon), and Bondi (J. G. Brown and H. Fletcher), dead-heat, 2. NOVICE ALARM REEL RACE. — First heat: North Steyne 1, North Bondi 2. Second heat: Coogee 1. Third heat: Bondi 1, Narrabeen 2. Final: Coogee (J. Leary, H. Mason, H. McLure, R. Harrocks, M. Ruben-stein) 2. WHEELBARROW RACE. — North Steyne (H. Nichols and F. E. Nichols), 1. CARNIVAL AT DEE WHY (1915, February 7). Sunday Times (Sydney, NSW : 1895 - 1930), p. 13. Retrieved from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article120792408 

However, Palm Beach SLSC, in supporter for years Alrema Samuels, a daughter of writer Louis Becke, possibly lends a much earlier experience and insight into surfboard riding. Louis Becke (1855-1913) witnessed surfing in Polynesia several decades prior to this, and possibly even took to the water himself. He would later take his daughters to this place on a returning to Australia via New Zealand in 1908 - probably the first time Alrema went surfing, as an 11 year old.

Becke was in the Ellice Islands by 1880 (now Tuvalu) working with the Liverpool firm of John S. de Wolf and Co. on Nanumanga until the trading-station was destroyed later that year in a cyclone. In February 1881 he opened his own store in Nukufetau, where he married Nelea Tikena. Later in 1881 a shipwreck on Beru Island in the Gilbert Islands caused him to lose all he had; Becke then worked in New Britain and was in Majuro by November 1882. For the next ten years Becke moved about the Gilbert Islands, Ellice Islands, Caroline Islands and Marshall Islands acquiring a knowledge of the customs and beliefs of the islanders and meeting palagi traders and beachcombers that Becke later used his stories.

In 'A Noble Sea Game', a chapter of Wild Life in Southern Seas by Louis Becke (1897) he writes:

JUST as my wild-eyed, touzle-headed Gilbert Island cook brought me my early coffee and hard ship biscuit, Toria and Vailele, brown-skinned brother and sister peeped in through the window, and in their curious bastard Samoan said 'twas a glorious morn to fahaheke. 

Now I had learned to fahaheke (use a surf-board), having been instructed therein by the youths and maidens of the village individually and collectively. And when you have once learned surf-swimming the game takes possession of your innermost soul like unto cycling and golf. So I said I would come, and instantly my young friends handed me in a surfing costume, a highly indecorous looking girdle of thin strippings of the leaf of the pandanus palm. 

This I blushingly declined, preferring a garment of my own design; a pair of dungaree pants razeed from the knees down. Then, bidding me hurry up and meet the swimming party on the beach, Toria and his sister ran back to the village to attend early morning service, to which the wooden cylinder that did duty for a church bell was already summoning the people. 

Now, in some of the Pacific Islands surf-swimming is one of the forbidden things, for many of the native teachers hold the sport to savour of the po uli – ie; of the heathen days - and the young folks can only indulge in the innocent diversion away from the watchful eye of the local Chadband and his alert myrmidons, the village police, among whom all fines are divided. But in this particular little island we had for our resident missionary a young stalwart Samoan, who did not forbid his flock to dance or sing, nor prohibit the young girls from wearing flowers in their dark locks. And he himself was a mighty fisherman and a great diver and swimmer, and smoked his pipe and laughed and sang with the people out of the fulness of his heart when they were merry, and prayed for and consoled them in their sorrow. So we all loved loane, the teacher, and Eline, his pretty young wife, and his two jolly little muddy brown infants ; for there was no other native missionary like him in all the wide Pacific. 

The simple service was soon over, and then there was a great scurrying to and fro among the thatched houses, and presently in twos and threes the young people appeared, hurrying down to the beach and shouting loudly to the white man to follow. A strong breeze had sprung up during the night, and the long rolling billows, which had sped waveringly along for, perhaps, a thousand miles from beyond the western sea-rim, were sweeping now in quick succession over the wide flat stretch of reef that stood out from the northern end of the island like a huge table. Two hundred yards in width from the steep-to face it presented to the sea, it ceased, almost as abruptly as it began, in a bed of pure white sand, six feet below the surface of the water ; and this sandy bottom continued all the way from the inner edge of the reef to the line of coco-palms fringing the island beach. At low tide, when the ever-restless rollers dashed vainly against the sea-face of the reef, whose surface was then bared and shining in the sun, this long strip of sheltered water would lay quiet and undisturbed, as clear as crystal and as smooth as a sheet of glass ; but as the tide rose the waves came sweeping over the coral barrier and poured noisily over its inner ledge till the lagoon again became as surf-swept and agitated as the sea beyond. This was the favoured spot with the people for surf-swimming, for when the tide was full the surf broke heavily on the reef, and there was a clear run of half-a-mile from the starting-point on the inner face of the coral table to the soft, white beach. Besides that, there was not a single rock or mound of coral between the reef and the shore upon which a swimmer might strike with fatal effect if the danger were not perceived in time. 

The north point was quite a mile from the village, and, the tide being very high, we had to follow a path through the coconut groves instead of walking along the beach, for the swirling waves, although well spent when they reached the shore, were washing the butts of the coco-palms, whose matted roots protruded from the sand at high-water mark. In front of us raced some scores of young children ranging from six years of age to ten, pushing and jostling each other in their eagerness to be first on the scene. Although the sun was hot already, the breeze was cool and blew strongly in our faces when we emerged from the narrow leafy track out upon the open strand. Then with much shouting and laughing, and playful thumping of brown backs and shoulders, Timi, the master of ceremonies for the occasion, marshalled us all in line and then gave the word to go, and with a merry shout, mingled with quavering feminine squeaks, away we sprang into the sea, each one pushing his or her surf- board in front, or shooting it out ahead, and trying to reach the reef before any one else. 

And now the slight regard for the conventionalities that had been maintained during the walk from the village vanished, and the fun began ducking and other aquatic horseplay, hair-pulling, seizing of surf-boards and throwing them back shorewards, and wrestling matches between the foremost swimmers. The papalagi (white man), swimming between the boy Toria and a short, square-built native named Temana, had succeeded in keeping well in the van, when he was suddenly seized by the feet by two little imps, just as a sweeping roller lifted him high up. And down the white man went, and away went his surf-board shoreward amid the shrieking laughs of the girls. 

" Never mind," shouted Temana, shaking his black curly head like a water-spaniel ; and seizing a board from a girl near him, and pushing her under at the same time, he shot it over towards me ; and then Toria, with a wrathful exclamation, caught one of the imps who had caused my disaster and, twining his left hand in her long, floating hair, pitched her board away behind him. This little incident, however, lost us our places, and amid the merry gibes of some naked infants who were in the ruck, we swam on in face of the slapping seas, and at last gained the edge of the reef, which was now alive with nude, brown-skinned figures, trying to keep their position in the boiling surf for the first grand " shoot " shoreward. 

Between the lulls of the frequent seas the water was only about four feet deep, and presently some sort of order was formed, and we awaited the next big roller. Over the outer reef it reared its greeny crest, curled and broke with thundering clamour, and roared its mile-line length towards us. Struggling hard to keep our feet on the slippery coral against the swift back-wash, we waited till the white wall of hissing foam was five feet away, and then flung ourselves forward flat upon our boards. 

Oh, how can one describe the ecstatic feeling that follows as your feet go up and your head and shoulders down, and you seem to fly through the water with the spume and froth of the mighty roller playing about your hair and hissing and singing in your ears ? Half a mile away lies the beach, but you cannot see it, only the plumed crowns of the palms swaying to and fro in the breeze ; for your head is low down, and there is nothing visible but a wavering line of shaking green.

 

Perhaps, if you are adept enough to turn your head to right or left, you will see silhouetted against the snowy wall of foam scores and scores of black heads, and then before you can draw your breath from excitement the beach is before you, and you slip off your board as the wave that has carried you so gloriously in sweeps far up on the shore, amid the vines and creepers which enwrap the sea-laved roots of the coco-palms. 

Then back again, up and down over the seas, diving beneath any that are too high and swift to withstand, till you reach the ledge of the reef again and wait another chance. Not all together do we go this time, for now the swimmers are widely separated, and as we swim out we meet others coming back, flying before the rollers under which we have to dive. Here and there are those who from long practice and skill disdain to use a board ; for springing in front of a curling sea, by a curious trick of hollowing in the back and depressing the head and neck, they fly in before the rolling surge at an amazing speed, beating the water with one hand as they go, and uttering wild cries of triumph as they pass us, struggling seaward. Others there are who with both hands held together before them, keep them-selves well in position amid the boiling rush of waters by a movement of the legs and feet alone. 

But, that day, to my mind the girls looked prettiest of all when, instead of lying prone, they sat upon their boards, and held them-selves in position by grasping the sides. Twice, as we swam out, did we see some twenty or thirty of them mounted slopingly on the face of a curling sea, and with their long, dark locks trailing behind them, rush shoreward enveloped in mist and spray like goddesses of the waves. Their shrill cries of encouragement to each other, the loud thunder of the surf as it broke upon its coral barrier, the seething hum and hiss of the roller as it impelled them to the beach, and the merry shrieks of laughter that ensued when some luckless girl over-balanced or misguided herself in the midst of the foam, lent a zest of enjoyment to the scene that made one feel himself a child again. 

For two hours we swam out again and again to fly shoreward ; and at last we met together on the beach, to rest under the shade of the palms, the girls to smoke their banana-leaf sului of strong negro-head tobacco, and the men their pipes, while the younger boys were sent to gather us young drinking-coconuts. 

Australians had, in fact, been given an opportunity to see surfboards, or the then versions of them, at the 1888 Centenary of NSW Exhibition. One 1888 SMH article records:

EXHIBITION OF WOMEN'S INDUSTRIES.

The principal attraction at this exhibition yesterday was the cut-flower display. ....

On the opposite side of the central space a case is being erected by Mr. Hoffnung, for the display of a number of curios and valuable articles, which have been sent by the Hale Nana or Archaeological Society of Honolulu, for the Melbourne Exhibition Mr. Hoffnung has decided to show them at the present Exhibition before forwarding them on to Victoria. 

Among the collection are the following; - Royal feather cape restored,  feather bed quilt, cloak cape and two pillow cases, two native red and white topees, two native nuhau mats, dining mat, cocoanut wooden bowl, two stone idols, two wooden fish gods, taboganning sleigh for women, hair booth necklaces, round awa bowl, wooden plates, finger bowls, and spittoon, assorted sizes of wooden poi calabash belonging to a famous monarch, docs'-teeth ankle ornament, stone adze and side axe, rough unpolished adze, women's and men's stone poi powder, a stone mortar, with powder for medicine, stone dye containers, stone plate and lamp, an unpolished poi calabash, sting slug (an implement of war), ballot balls, a spear made of kanwila wood, pair of rough ti-leaf sandals, primitive telephone instrument, invented in 1806; a dancing and a small auxiliary drum, box of 37 tapa-pounders, carrier stick for bearing burdens, miniature single and double outrigger canoes, ornamented and unornamented water gourd, calabashes find unornamented spittoon calabash "for common people," textile fiber, scrapers and board of the olono, short war club, fine mesh net made of the olona, ball and twine of the olona fibre, bamboo flute, small nose flute of gourd and miniature native hut, wooden tapa blocks with rough samples of tapa, gourd dancing instrument, bundle of bamboo tapa prints, samples of native tapa clothes, Hawaiian checker board with white and black pebbles, the board perforated with small holes to designate the places of the pebbles placed as alternately white and black with holes throughout the board, and used as Kriege-spiel or war game board and diplomacy ; cocoanut wooden dagger, surf-ridding board and wooden hook. Hanging from the central dais is a magnificent Fijian mat made by native women. It has been presented to Lady Carrington by Miss Annie Buttel as a contribution to the Exhibition. In the afternoon Miss Waleen delivered in the concert hall the second lecture, "Kindergarten." The lecture proved a very interesting one and formed the complement of the one which was delivered on the previous afternoon. Mrs. Windeyer, the delegate for the Educational Department, presided. The German Band played several selections of music during the day. …EXHIBITION OF WOMEN'S INDUSTRIES. (1888, October 13). The Sydney Morning Herald (NSW : 1842 - 1954), p. 11. Retrieved from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article13699509 

In the early 1930's the surfoplane, the idea of a Dr. Ernest Smithers who would also patent a design for the jaffle iron in 1949 and come up with many other brilliant ideas to make life easier or better, began to appear. Newspaper reports from then state it took eight years to develop.

A patent application (#9929 Class 3) for a "Surf plane" by E. E Smithers and C. D. Richardson was lodged on the October 7th 1932. - Official Journal of Trade Marks and Designs, Volume 3, Number 13, 1933, page 432.

Warringah shire council records that at the Meeting held December 19th, 1932:

Krapehide Rubber Products Co. 14/12/32, requesting permission to-hire out on beaches air inflated surfoplanes. Council Resolved: That they be granted permission provided the spaces to be used by them be allotted by the Inspectors.-, 

Krapehide were concerned with replacement soles for shoes prior to this.

On December 14th 1933 the Patent Office accepted a Trade Mark design for the "Surfo-plane": "CLASS 49 (Games of all kinds and sporting articles not included in other classes.) 61,515 Rubber surf board. ERNEST ERIC SMITHERS, and CARL WORDSWORTH RICHARDSON, of 193 Macquarie-street, Sydney, NSW, Australia, manufacturers, - 11th March, 1933.". Official Journal of Trade Marks and Designs Volume 3, Number 13, 1933, page 1421. 

Then a company was registered, which included an apparent friend of Dr. Smithers and possible inspiration for the name:

SURFOPLANES, LTD.—Reg. 6/4/34. Cap.: £20,000 in 10,000 cumulative preference, 2500 ordinary, and 7500 £1 shares to be issued at the discretion of the directors. Objects: To adopt an agreement dated 17/3/34 between Ernest E. Smithers, of Macquarie-st., Sydney, medical practitioner, and Sir Charles Kingsford Smith, of the one part, and T. H. Wynne-Lewis, as trustee for the company, of the other part, and to carry on the business of vendors, hirers and manufacturers of the invention known as Surfo Planes, etc. Subscribers: Ernest E. McLachlan, Percy A. Hocking, Alfred S. Smithers, Athol J. Sutherland, Alexander J. Nathan, Thomas H. Wynne-Lewis and Sir Charles Kingsford Smith (1 share each). First directors: Dr. Ernest E. Smithers and Sir Charles Kingsford Smith. Reg. office: 18 Martin-place, Sydney. (1909 – April 16, 1934 Issue). Dun's gazette for New South Wales Retrieved from http://nla.gov.au/nla.obj-819668581 

More in: The Advent of the Surfoplane phenomenon on our beaches led to an increase in lifesavers responses

Photo taken January 6 1938 according to the State Library of NSW records - on Palm Beach sands - photos from same album appear in a January 29, 1938 article in Pix. Item: SLNSW_FL9643984, courtesy State Library of NSW

There were also some rather unusual ways to 'have fun' in the area turning up in the archives:

NEW SUMMER SPORT ON NARRABEEN LAKES

You can ride a bicycle on water now, but the machines must have floats like these. The water cycles provide a popular pastime at Narrabeen. NEW SUMMER SPORT ON NARRABEEN LAKES (1941, May 12). The Sun (Sydney, NSW : 1910 - 1954), p. 15 (LATE FINAL EXTRA). Retrieved from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article231446273 

With the warmer weather also came the possibility of bushfires, with every suburb from Narrabeen to Palm Beach having experienced these

Bushfire at Mona Vale

SYDNEY, Sunday: The first serious bushfire this summer broke out today near Mona Vale, north of Sydney. Fanned by a strong westerly wind, the blaze at one stage threatened four houses at Warriewood, a tiny beach resort.

The fire burnt through thick scrub on a three miles front, and Jumped several roads before being brought under control. Bushfire at Mona Vale (1952, November 3). Daily Advertiser (Wagga Wagga, NSW : 1911 - 1954), p. 1. Retrieved from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article145509364 

Ultimately, as instanced in the sales brochures for the first Palm Beach land sales of January 12 1912, this was about getting away from the dust and heat of the city to connect with the beauty of the bush and water amid cooling sea breezes. 

They were all ‘running into the arms of God’ where it doesn’t matter how rich or how poor you are because all that has been gifted is yours to have simply by standing in this place, dipping your toes in the waters, climbing that hill for that view, and finding a quiet corner where you can exhale until the song being sung within the landscape acts as a balm within you, restoring your soul.

This was about becoming part of the green and the blue until you are letting those songs sing out from you.

Camping from Narrabeen to Barrenjoey 

During the early 1900’s and by the 1920’s the aspirations of state government and developers shifted to break up the large acreages into suburban lots so everyone who wanted to could have and own their own home. Even then the state of the roads and the length of time it took to travel to the far end of the Barrenjoey peninsula ensured many of these lots were weekenders, holiday houses, despite the thousands of families, and ratepayers, who settled here permanently.

References - Extras

1. TROVE - National Library of Australia
2. The Mitchell Library, State Library of NSW
3. Clareville Public Wharf: 1885 to 1935 - Some History
4. Pittwater Summer Houses: Rocky Point and Elvina Bay Peninsula -  A Place Of  Holiday Songs and Operas In Ventnor, Fairhaven, Trincomalee and Maritana
5. The First Scotland Island Cup, Trophy and Race and the Gentleman who loved Elvina Bay
6. A Tent at The Basin
7.  A Tent Or Hut At The Basin During Holiday Times 
8. Camping at Narrabeen – A Trickle then a Flood
9. Avalon Camping Ground
10. Stokes Point To Taylor's Point: An Ideal Picnic, Camping & Bathing Place 
11. Camping At Palm Beach - 2021 refreshed version
12. Pittwater Summer Houses: A Tent At Palm Beach's Governor Phillip Park 'Neath Barrenjoey
13. How Camping and Campers At Whale Beach Helped The Whale Beach SLSC Save Lives
14. Bilgola Beach - The Cabbage Tree Gardens & Camping Grounds + Bilgola The Story Of A Politician, A Pilot And An Epicure by Tony Dawson and Anne Spencer 
15. Collin's Retreat-Bay View House-Scott's Hotel 
16. The Oaks - La Corniche - Mona Vale beach
17. Pittwater Summer Houses: Ocean beach House - The Combers, Newport beach
18. Pittwater Summer Houses: 'Billabong' + 'Ocean House', Ocean Street, North Narrabeen - The House At The End Of The Road - Became Site Of North Narrabeen SLSC's 'Batchelor Club - 2023 refreshed version with more research added
19. 'Billabong' and 'Ocean House', Ocean Street, North Narrabeen - 2012 original
20. Summer Houses In Pittwater: A Cottage Of 1916 and Palm Beach House - 1916 To 1929
21. Pittwater Restaurants You Could Stay At Barrenjoey House – Palm Beach: 100 Years Young In 2022
22. Florida House, Palm Beach
23. The First Pittwater Regatta 
24. Pittwater Regattas of 1907 and 1908
25. Some Recollections Of  Early Bayview - a chat with Don Taylor and Margaret Tink
26. Bellemere-Melrose + The Green Frog at Church Point: Pittwater Summer Houses
27. Pittwater Restaurants you could stay at Pasadena Road House – Church Point - 2015 original version
28. La Corniche, Bayview
29. Stokes Point Careel Bay: The Shift From Warner's Hut In 1813 To Finisterre In 1924; 1934 Additions Probably Designed By Australia's First Female Architect, Beatrice (Bea) May Hutton - A Pittwater Rendezvous Site For Royal Sydney Yacht Squadron Members Is Still A Home With A View For Those With A Passion For Sailing
30. North Narrabeen Rock Pool: Some History
31. The Old Road To Narrabeen - The Unspoilt Days Of 100 Years Ago When You Could Still See the Sea
32. National Fitness Centres at Broken Bay, Mona Vale, Narrabeen: Local History shows we like to move it! Move It!
33. 'Longa Linga' At Church Point - The John Lander Browne Pre-WWII Designed Linear Home For An Aunt 
34. First to fly in Australia, Sunday December 5th, 1909; George Augustine Taylor and Florence Mary Taylor
35. Pittwater Regatta Air Race Trophies: from 1934 and 1935 and The Pilot Who Saved William Hughes
36. Landing in Pittwater: That Beach-Estuary-Lagoon looks like a great place to touchdown!
37. Pittwater Aviatrixes on the eve of the RAAF's 100th: A NSW Women's Week - Women of Aviation Week Celebration

38. Pittwater Roads II: Where the Streets Have Your Name - Church Point

FOR SALE. — A Splendid 1 Allotment- of .Land, 3 1/2 Acres. At Bayview, next to the Post-office and G. Wharf. Splendid Position for a Boarding house. Apply, Boatshed, Bayview, Pittwater. Advertising (1906, November 4). Sunday Times (Sydney, NSW : 1895 - 1930), p. 3. Retrieved from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article126564889

CLOSE to the OCEAN BEACHES and ATTRACTIVE WATERING PLACES in the picturesque District of PITTWATER, NEAR MANLY.

RAPIDLY COMING TO THE FRONT AS A FAVOURITE HOLIDAY RESORT.

1. THE ROCKLILY HOTEL, 

A WELL-KNOWN HOLIDAY HOUSE, standing in its ovvn grounds, having trontagcs of 170 feet to the PITTWATER-ROAD, and 205 feet to VINEYARD STREET, also the Recreation Reserve opposite, having 112 foot frontage to the PITTWATER-ROAD, with an average! depth of 275 feet, situate close to the Junction of BAY VIEW and NEWPORT ROADS.

The House Is built of brick, on brick foundation, with verandah in front, and wide verandah and grape trellis at side, and containing hall, bar, 2 dining rooms, 4 private dining rooms, sitting room, parlour, servants dining room, 5 bedrooms, 2 servants bedrooms, ???? room, 2 lavatories, kitchen, wash house, cellar in basement, detached bathroom.

IMMEDIATE POSSESSION.

The LICENSE and GOODWILL go with the Property.

THE TRAFFIC to and from Pittwater at WEEKENDS and during the HOLIDAY SEASON is very CONSIDERABLE, and as the drive from Manly is comfortably undertaken by MOTOR OMNIBUS or by UP-TO-DATE COACHES, MANY" VISITORS are ATTRACTED to the DISTRICT. 

As a SEASIDE RESORT in the hands of an ENERGETIC MAN the R0ÇKLILY HOTEL might be made one of the FIRST SEASIDE HOUSES north of Sydney. 

2. EXTENSIVE COACHING STABLES, occupied by Messrs. Cooper and Co., Coach Proprietors. They comprise stable (24 stalls), coach-houses, Manager's Cottage, shelter sheds, feed rooms, etc. 

THE LAND abuts on to the Hotel site, and has 824 feet frontage to VINEYARD-STREET, with a depth of 180 feet. 

A complete and inexhaustible water supply to each of above properties.

3. NEWPORT.

A WATERSIDE PROPERTY, comprising Lots 4 to 7, Section E, Newport Township, having 264 feet frontage to BEACONSFIELD-STREET, with a depth of over 200 feet, extending to the WATERS of PITTWATER, together with the Weatherboard COTTAGE and UNFINISHED STONE RESIDENCE thereon.

By' Order of the Executrix of the late LEON HOUREAUX. 

RICHARDSON and WRENCH, Ltd., will sell by auction at the Rooms, Pitt-street, on FRIDAY, 27thSEPTEMBER, at 11 o'clock, The above attractive properties at PITTWATER.

E. TREVOR JONES, 5 Bond-street, is Solicitor to the Estate. Advertising (1907, September 14). The Sydney Morning Herald (NSW : 1842 - 1954), p. 23. Retrieved from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article14881122

Although advertising itself as a hotel, the 'license' to serve alcohol had been withdrawn for the Rock Lily - reeking of a political favour cashed in, it was decided to reduce the number of licences to serve alcohol in the district and Newport won and Mona Vale lost.

Worth noting is Leontine, Leon's daughter, passed away at the Rock Lily a few decades later.

Also advertised a few columns over was another 8 Hour Day Sale on Mona Vale Beach - The Brock Estate - which had been taken by the government for a song

PRINCE OF WALES' BIRTHDAY.
MONDAY, NOVEMBER 12, 1900.
POPULAR EXCURSIONS TO THE
HAWKESBURY RIVER
and
PITTWATER,
Weather permitting, from Wharf, foot of Market street, at 10 a.m., sharp.
S.S. NAMOI, 1414 Tons,
To COWAN BAY, HAWKESBURY RIVER.
S.S. SYDNEY, 634 Tons,
To NEWPORT, PITTWATER,
Excursionists will be landed for about THREE HOURS, arriving in Sydney on return about 6 p.m.
LUNCHEON (1/6), provided by the Company.
Refreshments at Moderate Rates.
BAND ENGAGED for each Steamer. .
3/ RETURN FARE 3/
(Children Hali-price.)
F. J. THOMAS, Manager.
THE NEWCASTLE and H.R.S.S. CO., Ltd.
Offices, 147 Sussex-street. Advertising (1900, November 11). Sunday Times (Sydney, NSW : 1895 - 1930), p. 1. Retrieved  from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article126283028

The Narrabeen Camp

With two professional cooks, abundance of food, a fleet of rowing boats, a safe bathing pool, and the primeval bush of Deep Creek, the 120 O.K. lads who entered camp were bound to have a glorious time over the Easter vacation. Rain fell at the beginning, but that provided delightful sticky mud for certain interesting rites, which occurred during the nights, and obviated a more liberal use of boot polish. But when the days were fine and warm youth came into its own, and 'Deep Creek, 1928,' is voted the best camp we have ever held. Praise is due in highest measure to the 'Heads,' who found their joy in service to the lads.

And the devotional ideals of our Order were not forgotten. Who can estimate the blessing which came to us as we united in daily prayer, and, on Sun- day, participated in the services conducted by the Y.P.D. Director? Many will enter upon life again with clearer vision and deeper consecration, be-cause of our fellowship in worship. The Narrabeen Camp (1928, April 21). The Methodist (Sydney, NSW : 1892 - 1954), p. 8. Retrieved from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article155299107

Prawning

Although Narrabeen residents would harvest the prawns running to sea in mid-Winter from the Lagoon when that was opened to stop flooding due to rains, their migration to the sea or ‘prawn run’ usually takes place at night during the warm Summer months, depending on the rainfall and moon cycle. The prawns make their strongest run during the dark period of the lunar months. This is the peak time when amateur and commercial prawn fishermen take the best catches as the prawn’s crowd into estuary channels that lead out of lakes and rivers to the sea. Heavy rainfall seems to enhance the migration at any time.