August 1 - 31, 2026: Issue 657

 

Snapperman Beach, Pittwater: 1790-2026

Broken Bay Map 1790 courtesy State Library of Victoria - showing today's 'Snapperman Beach'

Snapperman Beach on the Pittwater side of Palm Beach, near the ferry wharf, derives its name from an early fish-curing enterprise on this site which focused on locally caught fish.

Although it may seem Barrenjoey was an isolated and deserted place in its earliest days, year round someone or something, in the form of ships and later, excursionists steamers, the Broken Bay Customs Station, and those living here pursuing fishing and farming occupations, was present to greet any visitors - as shown in in the wonderful serial written by Charles deBoos, which also describes Snapperman Beach as he walks through, Barrenjoey and Broken Bay Customs Station bound:

MY HOLIDAY. I
(From the Sydney Mail, September 7.)

Long before our arrival at the tents, if we had had any doubt with respect to the correctness of our surmise, our noses would have at once dispelled it; for the strong smell of the fish, cured à la Chinoise, that saluted our olfactories was so overpowering as to cause us to hesitate whether we should run the gauntlet of the tents, or whether we should give them a wide berth by making a detour. As it happened, however, that we required to replenish our stock of tea and sugar, it became absolutely necessary that we should visit the tent, these enterprising foreigners keeping the only depot on the Peninsula for the sale of these articles; and, consequently, "the ancient fish-like smell" had to be encountered.

As we approached we met with all the materiel of a fishery. First, a long and apparently valuable seine was spread out on the grass a little above the beach to dry, and a boat hauled up on the sand showed that it had been recently used. Another, and a somewhat smaller, boat was moored out in deep water ready for use. A little further on, about ten or a dozen bushels of guardfish were spread out on the grass to cure, with small hopes, as I should imagine, of their drying under the influence of the weak and wintry sun. Next a small tent full of barrels of all kinds, but principally the light American oak flour barrels, showed the preparations for packing the fish obtained and dried during the summer season. Ten or a dozen yards further on was another tent,-the fish store-in which were piled up heaps of snapper and large-sized bream, all cured and ready for the Celestial consumption for which they had been prepared; and here we found the two Chinese, master and man, who owned the location. The master appeared a tolerably decent looking and intelligent man, who spoke English sufficiently well to be understood, and who very readily gave us all the information in regard to his fishery that we demanded from him.

Their mode of procedure is this:-they fit out boats for persons willing to fish for them, of course keeping an account against them, for materials, rations, &c, supplied, and taking from them all the fish they catch suitable for curing, at a certain fixed price. The smaller fish they allow them to take into the Sydney market. In the season they have from fifteen to twenty boats at work fur them, principally manned by Europeans, besides which they buy from all who choose to come to them, offering to the fishermen the further convenience of the store they carry on, and from which they supply tea, sugar, and biscuit at a very small advance upon Sydney prices. We bought, at 3s. per lb., some really fine black tea, very much superior to any that is to be procured ordinarily at the grocers' shops of the metropolis. Sugar was 6d. per lb., similar to that for which 5d. is paid in Sydney ; whilst Wilkie's best cabin biscuits are retailed at 4d. per lb. As soon as the fish are procured they are cut open and gutted, lightly rubbed with salt, and then spread out in the sun to dry. In the summer this is very speedily and effectually done, although not without the fish obtaining that peculiarly rank and offensive smell that all who have passed by a Chinese store must have noticed. The supply of fish is allowed to accumulate during the summer, heaped in a tent devoted to the purpose, the heaps being occasionally turned, and every care taken against damp and wet; and so soon as the drying season is over-when the sun ís too far from the zenith as to have lost his power-the packing is commenced. No further trouble is taken in the packing, than to lay them in the barrels as closely as they can be got, and to press them down as hard as can be done with the hands. They are then headed up and forwarded to Sydney, to be distributed all over the interior wherever Chinese most do congregate. This season they had obtained about two hundred barrels of fish.

Besides this fishing station on Pitt Water, there are also others at Brisbane Water, on Tuggerah Beach Lake, and on Lake Macquarie, all carried on by Chinese. There are several others also to the south-ward of Port Jackson, though my Chinese informant could not give me the names of the places where they ore established. All these fisheries have been formed by Chinese merchants resident in Sydney; that at Pitt Water belongs to a Chinese merchant in George street, whose name I could not make out, although I tried very hard to do so. The Chinese from whom I had these details was a kind of superintendent or manager of the fishery, keeping accounts against the fishermen with perfect correctness, and keeping the books of the station in the same way as an English storekeeper would do. He showed his board of colored beads by which he did all his reckoning, his multiplication, division, addition, and subtraction ; but after about half-a-dozen explanations, which he went through with most exemplary patience, neither of us could make head or tail of it, albeit Nat, who considers himself exceedingly clever at accounts, said he thought he saw what the plan was.

Having purchased our stores, and obtained all the information we could from the boss, we filled our billy with water, and, obtaining the permission of the locataires, put it over their fire. When they found that we were going to take our midday repast, they brought out biscuit and butter and spread them before us, and when our pot boiled, produced their own tea and sugar for our use, thus performing the right of hospitality in true bush fashion. We were rather pleased at this, as we had previously imagined that the very last place to go to for a feed would be a Chinese tent. We made an excellent meal of biscuit, butter, and watercresses, and I think rather astonished master John at the quantity of comestibles that we managed to stow away. They had pressed us very hard to try some of their fish, and they certainly had a string of very fine fat mullet hanging up in their private tent, no doubt as a special delicacy, but neither of us could stand the odour, which nothing but long habit or absolute starvation could have overcome.

All the stronger for our meal-snack, Tom called it-we lighted our pipes, resumed our loads, and bade adieu to our entertainers, thanking them for the kind hospitality which they had furnished, the more particularly as it had been unsought on our part.

Crossing a bright clear brooklet that ran close to the rear of the tents, a couple of hundred yards brought us to a rocky headland forming the northern boundary of the cove on which the Chinamen were located. This we crossed by a miserable track knee deep in mud, and, arrived on the other side, we had Barranjuee full in front of us, about three quarters of a mile distant, with a long cleared flat, that had the appearance of having been at one time cultivated, lying between us and the mountain. This flat, which now intervened between us and Barranjuee, was scarcely two hundred yards across at the widest part dividing the Pacific from Pitt Water, and joining Barranjuee to the main. It is very low, and is fully exposed to whole sweep of the south-eastern gales that at some seasons prevail upon the coast, throwing up the waves in watery mountains upon the long beach that faces seaward, and scattering the spray in drenching showers right across into the bay. A dense scrub of ti tree and honeysuckle grows on the seaward side of the flat, forming a thick protecting belt almost up to the mountain, and this Nat and I determined to push through, whilst Tom went on ahead to the Customs station, whose white cottage we could see glistening brightly against the dark back ground of the vast cliffs of the mountain.

MY HOLIDAY. (1861, September 9). The Sydney Morning Herald (NSW : 1842 - 1954), p. 3. Retrieved from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article13063749

The fish-curers were still present years later:

On the eastern side of Pitt Water, between Barrenjoey and the farm of Mr. Collins, there is a fishing station, of Chinese and Europeans, and even here the neatness of the huts and the care bestowed on the cultivation of flowers are really pleasing to contemplate. The hut of the European is literally covered with foliage, and surrounded with bee hives, on which he bestows much attention. The Chinese cure the fish caught for exportation, and their establishment is a perfect pattern of order and cleanliness, and like the hut of their neighbour, is in the midst of flowers, many of rare description. A RIDE TO BARRANJOEY. (1867, March 22). The Sydney Morning Herald (NSW : 1842 - 1954), p. 5. Retrieved from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article13150778 

That same year the fish-curing enterprise is impacted by a June storm - later photographs record high tides along with storms will fill that flat area alongside Snapperman beach:

BROKEN BAY.

[FROM OUR CORRESPONDENT] 

June 24 – We have had tremendous weather, but, as far as Pitt Water is concerned, no damage has been done with the exception to one of our picturesque curiosities, St. Michael’s Arch. It has at length to the too mighty elements and the destroying influence of time, that which was the admiration of all who have beheld it is now almost baseless fabric-there is only about one half of the outer support left, looking at it at a distance it has the resemblance of a coloured pillar. In its fall it carried a large portion of the overhanging rock with it, a thousand tons of gigantic boulders, and in such masses that I think it will stop the ingress from that part to the cave, but at yet we have had no close inspection for the rollers are dashing to the height of the stupendous rocks. The only idea I can give of the gale is that the froth of (not spray) the sea came over Mount St. Joseph, opposite the house, half a foot in size, and spread itself down to the dam, at times shading the heights of the mountain,-its resemblance was that of an overwhelming snow storm.

The sea at Barranjoey washed away the flower garden in front of the Chinamen's huts, taking soil and all, so that the beach comes close up to their door. There must have been awful havoc in the Hawkesbury, for all the beaches from Barranjoey to the Long Beach are strewn with fragments of houses, boxes, chairs, door frames, dead pigs, hay, wheat, broken bedsteads, weather-board sides of houses, oranges with large branches, pumpkins, melons, corn cobs, and other debris, that scarcely any portion of the beaches can be seen. Mr. Conolly picked up a workbox, in which was contained a number of receipts and letters directed to Mr. Moss, Windsor. The beaches on which are the debris is Barrenjoey, Whale Beach, Collins's Beach, Mick's Hollow Beach, Farrell's Beach, Mona Beach, and Long Beach, so it may be imagined the great extent of destruction. BROKEN BAY. (1867, June 27). The Sydney Morning Herald (NSW : 1842 - 1954), p. 2. Retrieved from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article13144304 


W.H. Raworth (Brit./Aust./NZ, c1821-1904). St Michael’s Arch, NSW [Avalon] c1860s. Watercolour, signed lower left, obscured title in colour pencil verso, 34.2 x 56.5cm. Tear to left portion of image, slight scuffs and foxing to upper portion.  Price (AUD): $2,900.00  at:https://www.joseflebovicgallery.com/pages/books/CL181-53/w-h-raworth-c-brit-aust-nz/st-michaels-arch-nsw-avalon 

Photo: Ray Henman's picture of flooding opposite the Palm Beach Garage, corner of Iluka and Barrenjoey road - archived by Bill Goddard. Charlie and Vida Prince are on the front steps; they rented the house in the 1950s. Note the dinghy near the wall.

Snapperman Beach is also impacted by floods in the west which carry refuse down the Hawkesbury River and into Pittwater. In fact, 'Haystack Point' at Newport was named after one such flood brought haystacks on which pigs were reported to be carried.

Although the 1930's installation of retaining walls would have lessened some of the impacts of high tide flooding and the worst of the waves that will run even in this quiet section of Pittwater during storms and floods from the Hawkesbury, the flat run of the landscape alongside the Snapperman to Sand Point is still susceptible to flooding due to inundation from the estuary during these events, and from the creeks that run down from the hill behind this section of Palm Beach, especially during rain events.

Snapperman Beach after floods in the Hawkesbury in 2021:



This June 1867 storm added to the calls for a light on Barrenjoey Headland:

BROKEN BAY AS A HARBOUR OF REFUGE.

To the Editor of the Herald.

Sir, - The late heavy gales suggest that the Government ought to take measures for making a harbour of refuge of portions of Broken Bay. That opinions as to its suitability for the purpose are conflicting I admit; but surely when it is borne in mind that there is no port where a vessel may take shelter from a storm between Port Jackson and Port Stephens, it is worth while ascertaining the truth of the matter. During a short visit, I took the opportunity to make inquiries as to the difficulties in the way of vessels entering; and also the best places for them to make, and, from what I then ascertained, there can be little doubt the bay is not sufficiently well charted. There would be some difficulty in working up to the basin in a S.E. gale, but no difficulty whatever in making the smooth waters of Cowan if there were a guide in the shape of a lighthouse on Barrenjoey. I believe a suggestion was made some time ago to have a light placed on Elliott Island. This would, it appears to me, be a very undesirable situation, as the light could not be seen until vessels were well round either the North or South Heads of Broken Bay, whereas it ought to be visible well out to sea.

Except to the captains of the vessels that regularly trade there, its advantages are almost unknown, even to the traders on the coast.

I remain, Sir, yours obediently,

F. C. B. 

BROKEN BAY AS A HARBOUR OF REFUGE. (1867, June 22). The Sydney Morning Herald (NSW : 1842 - 1954), p. 4. Retrieved fromhttp://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article13142244 

The Barrenjoey lights came on soon after: - visit Barrenjoey Lighthouse - The Construction

LIGHT ON BARRENJOEY.-On Monday last, the Superintendent of Pilots (Mr. Hixson), the Engineer for Harbours and Rivers (Mr. Moriarty), and several other gentlemen, proceeded to Broken Bay in the Government steamer Thetis, where they fixed and determined upon a site for the light proposed to be erected at Barrenjoey.

His Excellency the Governor, and about twenty other gentlemen, availed themselves of the opportunity of visiting Broken Bay, Pitt Water, and the mouth of the Hawkesbury. Abridged from the SM Herald, June 9.  ORIGINAL CORRESPONDENCE. (1868, June 11 - Thursday). The Maitland Mercury and Hunter River General Advertiser (NSW : 1843 - 1893), p. 2. Retrieved from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article18733795 

On the 8th instant, the Governor and a party of officials visited Barrenjoey, on Monday last, to determine the spot on which the intended light is to be placed. NOTES OF THE WEEK. (1868, June 13).The Sydney Morning Herald (NSW : 1842 - 1954), p. 5. Retrieved from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article28423959 

Not altogether unconnected with the subject of colonisation and settlement, and certainly not devoid of interest to shipmasters and owners trading from England to this port, is the official announcement just made, that on and after the 20th of this month two temporary fixed lights will be exhibited on Barrenjoey, the inner south headland of Broken Bay, a few miles to the northward of Port Jackson. 

We believe that the frameworks for the lights have already been sent down by the Government steamer Thetis; and there can be no question that a light has long been required in that spot. But, to an unprofessional person, it would appear somewhat imprudent to light up these beacons on so short a notice. So far as the coasting trade is concerned, the notice may be quite sufficient; but there is nothing uncommon in vessels from England, coming in to the land from seaward, making the coast near Broken Bay ; and what must a captain think if, getting close under the land in the evening, he sights one or both of those lights, which the official notice says " will be visible at a distance to seaward of about twelve miles " If aware of the lights having been placed upon Barrenjuey he would of course be on his guard, but in ignorance of that fact, would it not be possible for him to mistake them for the Sydney lights? Of course the Government and the nautical authorities have no object but the safety and security of our maritime commerce; but we might be permitted to put the case suggestively-whether it would not be prudent to give a far more extended notice before causing those beacons to be lighted. The Empire. (1868, July 15). Empire (Sydney, NSW : 1850 - 1875), p. 4. Retrieved from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article60855199 

Monday, July 20.— Recd, at 12.56 a.m. –

Barrenjoey lights will Appear to-night for the first time. LATEST NEWS, (1868, July 21). The Newcastle Chronicle (NSW : 1866 - 1876), p. 2. Retrieved from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article111330247 

As a singular coincidence it may be mentioned that for a number of years large numbers of goats could be seen browsing about the ravines and precipitous cliffs in the neighbourhood of Barrenjoey. They had become very wild, and frequented the most inaccessible cliffs; and, although often seen perched in some rocky point, they were very difficult to approach within rifle range, and were therefore safe from molestation by man. Yet, singular to say, although these animals had been there for many years, a few months ago it was found that they had all suddenly disappeared. It is clear that they were not killed, for in no instances have any remains of them been found, and in no way can the residents of that part of the country account for their mysterious disappearance.-Ed ] A VISIT TO MONTAGUE ISLAND. (1869, September 15). Empire(Sydney, NSW : 1850 - 1875), p. 4. Retrieved from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article60896387 

Telegragh to connect Barrenjoey with Broken Bay, £1350. THE ESTIMATES. (1869, October 21). The Maitland Mercury and Hunter River General Advertiser (NSW : 1843 - 1893), p. 4. Retrieved from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article18740581 

BARRENJOEY LIGHTS.

Mr. WINDEYER called the attention of the Government, and especially of the Treasurer, to the lights at Barrenjoey. There were two lights, which were a quarter of a mile apart, and the keeper's house was built at a considerable distance from them. There was a necessity for another person to aid him. It was a rule in the United Kingdom that there should be three men for every island or rook lighthouse. In this case these two lights at a considerable distance, and there is enormous labour involved in keeping up these two lights. 

The keeper often has to remain exposed to wind and rain all night. (Mr. HILL; Hear, hear.) He has to light the lights from the outside, which is almost in itself impossible when the weather is rough. And instead of receiving the same remuneration as other lighthouse- keepers, namely, £180 a year, he only receives £150 a year. There was even more danger .than before the lights were put up; for captains would, of course expect to see the lights there. He moved the adjournment of the House.

Mr. SAMUEL said he would inquire further into the subject. The Superintendant of Lighthouses had recommended that this man's salary should be raised to L180; but he considered that he ought to perform all the duties. The Government contemplated the erection of a permanent lighthouse there. But some delay had arisen from a dispute about the title of the land.

Mr. WINDEYER said it was impossible that one man could attend to two lights. While he was at one the other might be put out.

The motion for adjournment was negatived. PARLIAMENT. (1870, March 9). Empire (Sydney, NSW : 1850 - 1875), p. 3. Retrieved from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article60891977 

The first light keeper was George Mulhall, known for his prowess as a rower. A later report states the beach itself has had at least two names, one being 'Chinaman's Beach' and the other the current 'Snapperman'. 

Fisherman's garden

WHERE the Palm Beach (Barranjoey, NSW) wharf is today there was a garden kept by three old fishermen back in 1828. This bower of the fishermen was hidden by rocks and luxuriant fig trees. They had a hut and a garden in cultivation, and supplied the settlers far up the Hawkesbury with fish. The name of one of these fisher-folk was John Howard. He arrived in the transport Scarborough with the First Fleet. 

Felton Mathew (a surveyor) and his wife visited the bower in 1834. On that occasion two of its inhabitants were away fishing. They found the other very civil, offering them dried fish and poultry, so they stopped for breakfast; and afterward crossed the swells in a boat to Brisbane Water. The place is shown on the maps now as Snapperman Beach, because there was a colony of Chinamen there 90 years ago engaged in curing fish for the Sydney and Melbourne markets. 

The manager, Ah Chuey, was a Chinese gentleman, much respected by the residents of Pittwater. He was exceedingly fair in his dealings and had a regular price for the fish. He preferred snapper, for which he gave 5/- a dozen, but he would take other fish, and sometimes two or three boatloads would be piled up on the beach. The Chinese also had a garden from which they sold excellent vegetables to less industrious residents. The bus to Palm Beach now passes over the site of the fishermen's garden.-J.S.N.W. (NSW).  AUSTRALIANA (1953, January 3). The World's News (Sydney, NSW : 1901 - 1955), p. 30. Retrieved from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article131642463 

This is from Mr Wheeler, of Church Point knowledge - John Howard was actually who was assigned to set up the Broken Bay Customs Station at Barranjoey

Snapperman Beach itself was given in a land grant to James Napper He was formally granted 400 acres on March 16, 1816 between Whale Beach and Palm Beach which he call 'Larkfield'. Larkfield may be a name associated with his family. He actually left Sydney on January 28th, 1816 as surgeon on board the Emu, along with his wife Emma and infant son Richard. The couple also had a daughter, Marie Ann, born circa 1814-1815, while in Australia.

Notices in the Government Gazette for him to collect cattle assigned to him continued to appear until later that year, commencing in June 1816. These were to be collected from Seven Hills.

A CARD.- Dr. PARMETER respectfully acquaints the Ladies and Gentlemen of Sydney, that he will remove to No. 10, O'Connell-street, on the 22d Inst, the late residence of Mr. Napper. -The Public may depend upon Dr. P's medical assiduity, whether as a Physician or a Surgeon. Classified Advertising (1816, March 16). The Sydney Gazette and New South Wales Advertiser (NSW : 1803 - 1842), p. 1. Retrieved from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article2176584

By July 1822 D’Arcy Wentworth was in possession of Napper’s 400 acre farm, and advertised it to let:

TO be LET, TWO FARMS, situate at Pitt-water, the one containing 700 Acres, and the other 400 Acres of Land, nearly contiguous to each other, and particularly well calculated for the purposes of Grazing and Agriculture.-Apply to D'ARCY WENTWORTH, Esq. the Proprietor, at Sydney.Classified Advertising (1822, August 2). The Sydney Gazette and New South Wales Advertiser (NSW : 1803 - 1842), p. 2. Retrieved from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article2181203

In the 1841 census Michael Sullivan (convict transported in 1819 for 7 years - Ticket of Leave granted) was shown as living at Barrenjoey; he was married, with three children. He was then living on and working the farm which some sources state was to have been on the site of the present Palm Beach Golf course. Other sources state the 'hut' was at the end of what is now Waratah street, Palm Beach where an old spring and creek may still be found:

There is a small patch of alluvial land of the first-rate quality near Barranjoey Head, on which a very industrious small settler of the name of Sullivan has set down, within the last few months, on a lease from Mr. Wentworth, the proprietor. The extent of land he has managed to clear and put into crop in so short a time, is as creditable to the settler as the splendid crop of maize and tobacco it bears is to the land. The neighbour-hood of Pitt Water and Brisbane Water is considered particularly favourable for the growth of onions, and the raising of that useful article of horticultural produce for the Sydney market, is the main dependence of the small settlers in these districts. The past season has been considered rather unfavourable, however, for this crop, the late rains, which have come in such good time for the maize, having been too late for the onions ; but we found a very tolerable crop notwithstanding on various farms in both districts. The scenery near Barranjoey is romantic and interesting in a very high degree, the land and water being finely disposed for a picture, and the forest trees on the low ground along Pitt Water being remarkably umbrageous and beautiful, while the view from the Head itself — including the vast Pacific ; Pitt Water separated from it by the narrow strip of land above-mentioned, and running up for the remaining part of its extent between two ranges of considerable elevation, and losing itself at length in the distance ; Broken Bay, with the lofty, precipitous rocky island, called Mount Ellis, guarding the entrance of the Hawkesbury, and standing off, like a sentinel on duty, from its opposite shore, while the lower reaches of that noble river are seen stretching far inland between the lofty and barren ranges that line the whole extent of its course from the Blue Mountains to the ocean — all this is uncommonly fine. Second or third-rate writers of literary articles of this kind regularly wish for the pencil of a Claude, or a Salvator Rosa, when they find themselves in such situations as we found our-selves in, to our no small gratification and delight, when we stood perched for a time on Barranjoey Head ; but as such idle wishes would not save any of our readers who might be desirous of experiencing the same pleasurable emotions, the trouble and fatigue of a long pedestrian tour through the bush, we shall not put ourselves to the trouble of uttering them.

If any of our readers should be desirous of visiting the district of Brisbane Water, which we can assure them is well worth visiting, we would by all means advise them to postpone their visit till some of our enterprising colonial speculators shall have put a steam-boat on the course between Sydney and Brisbane Water. For our own part we crossed Broken Bay in Sullivan, the small settler's small boat ; and as there is a large extent of shallow water on the north side of the Bay, on which the sea breaks violently (whence its appropriate name, Broken Bay) whenever there is the least wind from certain quarters, we confess that sailing in such a vessel is somewhat dangerous. Rollers rise instantaneously, even in the mildest weather, in the Bay, and when one of these breaks on a small boat she is almost sure to be swamped, and all on board drowned. Colonial Statistics. (1838, February 28).The Colonist (Sydney, NSW : 1835 - 1840), p. 2. Retrieved from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article31720524

In 1900 the Palm Beach and Whale Beach land that formed part of the Bassett-Darley Estate was put up for sale:

PITTWATER. 
MARINE SITES. 
THAT MAGNIFICENT BLOCK of 400 acres delineated as James Napper's Grant on the Government plan of Parish of Narrabeen, ex the portions reserved by Government for Lighthouse and Public School purposes
, IN SUBDIVISION, now in preparation by Mr. Licensed Surveyor, A. W. Stephen, into SUITABLE AREAS, to fit the requirements of YACHTSMEN, RETIRED GENTLEMEN, PUBLIC CATERERS, BUILDING SPECULATORS and others seeking DESIRABLE FREEHOLDS in a district growing in popularity every day, and soon likely to became a favorite suburb.
THE ESTATE is traversed by the MAIN ROAD, and EMBRACES many favorite and historic vantage points, notebly on the ocean side— CABBAGE TREE BOAT HARBOR and Little Heads, and in Pittwater that lovely camping ground, CAREEL BAY.
By order of the surviving Trustee of THE BASSETT-DARLEY ESTATE, And the Administratrix of the late BENJAMIN WENTWORTH DARLEY. 
BATT, RODD, and PURVES, Limited, are instructed to sell the above by PUBLIC AUCTION, at their Rooms, 88 Pitt-street, on — TUESDAY, 30th JANUARY, AT 11.30 A.M.
Messrs. STEPHEN, JAQUES, and STEPHEN, Solicitors, O'Connell-street, will furnish evidences of Titles.
Advertising (1900, January 21). Sunday Times (Sydney, NSW : 1895 - 1930), p. 5. Retrieved from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article126278402


Pittwater Marine Sites, Bassett-Darley Estate 1900, Pittwater subdivision plans Item c053460015, courtesy State Library of NSW.

30 acres on the estuary side was purchased by Charles John Edward Forssberg, a resident of Manly, and registered in August 1900. 

A visit by the Allen Family in November 1909 also provides some photographs of the terrain of then:


Description beneath photograph - 'A better view of the same beach'


Pittwater side of Palm Beach showing what would become Snapperman, Sand Point and recently named Pittwater Park - Album 52: Photographs of the Allen family, November 1909 - Digital Order Numbers: a1373025h and a1373021h courtesy Mitchell Library, State Library of New South Wales.

In Mr. Allen's photos no jetty nor structure mars the landscape, not even the 4th Barrenjoey School can be spotted - the boards and remnant foundations gone. The Barrenjoey Road, (road to Barrenjoey) as it was then, is rough, strewn with rocks and hardly suitable for horse and cart, let alone the new vehicles then becoming popular with those who could afford them in Sydney.


a1373020h: Description beneath photograph - 'On the Pittwater side, linking the list hill before descent to Barranjoey'.

a1373024h: Description beneath photograph -'Coming up the hill from Barranjoey' - both from  Sunday November 21st, 1909 -  from Allen Family Albums: Album 52: Photographs of the Allen family, November - December, 1909. Courtesy State Library of NSW 

Accessing this end of Pittwater was still more an aquatic affair and adventure; locals commuted across the estuary by rowboat, fishing vessel, skiff, coaster, yacht and scull, not around it. 

In June 1911, just after the tramline to Brookvale opened, a group of businessmen registered the 'Barranjoey Company', and led by John Ralston, succeeded in purchasing the rest of the Bassett-Darley Barrenjoey acreage. Some sources state they paid a whopping £500 - the proprietors apparently wanted at least £1900.00.:

NOTES AND COMMENTS. 

Barrenjoey Company, Ltd, has been registered with a capital of £6000, In 120 shares of £50 each, the object being to purchase 410 acres of the Bassett Darley subdivision. The first directors are Messrs H. Wolstenholme, E T Jones, J T Ralston, J Young, and H R Nolan. NOTES AND COMMENTS. (1911, June 3). The Sydney Morning Herald (NSW : 1842 - 1954), p. 15. Retrieved from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article15239859 

They applied to install or formalise an already installed jetty at the north end of Snapperman Beach under Observation Point. A swimming area was later netted against sharks around this, which Warringah Shire council required them to maintain and make available for students to use. 

APPLICATIONS FOR SPECIAL LEASES

Attention is directed to the notification in the "Government Gazette" of this date of applications made for Special Leases, as hereunder mentioned. Any objections lodged in writing at this office on or before 13th December, 1911, or before the Local Land Board shall have concluded its inquiry at the hearing of the respective applications for such Special Leases, will be duly considered; and any objections lodged after that period will not be entertained.

ARTHUR SHARP. Chairman.

Applicant: THE BARRANJOEY COMPANY, Limited (S.L.), 11.7, Metropolitan). Locality: Pittwater, Parish of Narrabeen, County of Cumberland. Area: 32 perches; for wharf. Advertising (1911, November 18). The Sydney Morning Herald (NSW : 1842 - 1954), p. 11. Retrieved from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article15290140 

Snapperman Beach in 1912. Item FL2703455  courtesy State Records NSW


'Barrenjoey Beach, Pittwater' 1912. Government Printing Office 1 - 12139 Item: FL2703347, courtesy NSW State Records and Archives


 'View on Pittwater' [Pittwater (NSW) bays beaches] 1912; first wharf at Snapperman can be seen through the trees. Government Printing Office 1 - 12140, Item: FL2703035, courtesy NSW State Records and ArchivesBarrenjoey - Palm Beach Estate - Pittwater - Barranjoey Rd 1912. Item c052700030, courtesy State Library of NSW - H. Wolstenholme, solicitor to the estate. Showing site of original wharf and cottage. Note the second 'proposed wharf' further down the Snapperman beach stretch towards Sandy Point.

This was one of the first public baths on the Pittwater estuary:

Department of Lands, Sydney; 30th January. 1913 Extension of Term of APPLICATION FOR LEASES FOR SPECIAL PURPOSE. It is hereby notified for general information that an application by the Barrenjoey Company, Ltd., has been received for a Special Lease for a bathing place, under the provisions of the 89th Section of the Crown Lands Act of 1884, of 1 rood 20 perches, Parish of Narrabeen, County of Cumberland, at Pittwater, north of, and adjoining the Special Lease for Wharf of the Barrenjoey Company, Limited, on frontage of portion 18 of 400 Acres. Any objections will receive due consideration, if lodged in writing with the Metropolitan District Surveyor, on or, before the 5th March. 1913. (6b-3S9)_J. L. TREFLE. Advertising. (1913, February 15). The Sydney Morning Herald(NSW : 1842 - 1954), p. 14. Retrieved from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article15398401

Bill Goddard's 'Milton Family Property History - Palm Beach' shares insights of Harry Munro Milton purchasing lot 39 on Deposited Plan 6746 from The Barrenjoey Company Limited on April 25 1913. The land measured 66 ft x 200 ft and had an area of one rood and one-quarter perches. The property's western boundary adjoined Barrenjoey Road, which was only a grass track barely suitable for a horse and cart. The Land Title is Volume 2360 – Folio 119.


Milton Family Campsite 1912 - Snapperman Beach, Palm Beach

Barrett’s Launch is coming into Palm Beach Wharf – Likely to be about 1912. Photo: Goddard Family albums

See: Barrett Family of Pittwater: History by William (Bill) James Goddard


First Palm Beach wharf at Snapperman Beach North end - the Barrenjoey Company wharf in 1913. Note the meshed swimming area. Photo courtesy Milton Family and Goddard Family history researcher W. Goddard


Hilda and Fanny Milton with unknown Boys on Palm Beach Wharf, 1913. Photo courtesy Milton Family and Goddard Family history researcher W. Goddard

The wharf was a meeting and farewell place for the community...;

At 7.30 on Monday morning a. very enthusiastic crowd of 80 to 100 friends assembled on the wharf at Palm Beach, Barranjoey, to bid farewell to Mr. W. Chorley and Mrs. Chorley and their daughters, of 'Mount Pleasant,' Cheltenham. The family have been staying over the holidays at 'The Rest,' which is their pretty seaside residence facing the ocean, and situated at Palm Beach. At 'The Rest' friends were right royally entertained, and received the Chorley family's usually abundant hospitality. Croquet tournaments were played, surf parties and plenty of music were indulged In, and altogether the holidays were very delightfully spent. 

There was great rejoicing when Mr. Chorley's private launch came alongside the wharf, which was overcrowded with sincere friends. The Hon. W. Tyler, of South Australia, made a most humorous speech; and Mr. Chorley responded in his usual happy way, and hoped that they and their friends would all be spared to meet again next Christmas. All joined hands and sang 'Auld lang syne' whilst the launch drew out from the wharf and steamed down the river. PERSONAL PARS. (1915, January 13). The Cumberland Argus and Fruitgrowers Advocate (Parramatta, NSW : 1888 - 1950), p. 3. Retrieved from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article86103157

The Chorley family were early purchasers of a block of land on the Palm Beach beachfront. 

See; The First Weekenders On The Palm Beach Beachfront + A Look Into Palm Beach SLSC Clubhouses In The Club's 101st Season


'The Rest' - Chorley's - section from panorama - courtesy National Library of Australia

 Observation Point, Palm Beach, Newport Digital Order Number: a106120 circa 1912, Broadhurst Image, courtesy State Library of NSW.


The meshed bathing area lease extended:

EXTENSION OF TERMS OF SPECIAL LEASES. County Cumberland, parish Narrabeen, below high-water mark, Pitt water, portion Sp. L. 1912 4 ; Ms. 3,922 Sy. Area, 1 rood 20 perches. 


1917 -1176 Barranjoey Co., Ltd., 14 Castlereagh-st., Sydney. No. of Application – 1912 – 4, Metropolitan Bathing Place – from 1 Jan. 1917 to 31 Dec. 1921

Special Lease 1912-4, Metropolitan. Barrenjoey Company, Limited.—The lease shall be subject to subsections 1, 3, 4, 6 to 9, 11, and 13 of Regulation No. 106 (notified 20th April, 1917), and to the following special conditions:—

(a) The lessees shall permit children attending any school in Warringah Shire, and in charge of teachers, to have the free use of the baths without payment on one day in each week between the hours of 2 p.m. and 4 p.m., such children to provide their own towels and bathing costumes. (b) The lessees shall have not less than three life-buoys readily available at all times. (c) The lessees shall be responsible for the proper conduct and cleanliness of the baths, and shall compel bathers to wear suitable bathing costumes, (d) The lessees shall, after determination of the lease by forfeiture, effluxion of time, or otherwise, and within such time as may be given, remove the structure or all or any material from the land at their own cost, and without compensation, if required by the Minister in writing to do so. (e) The lessees shall, within six months from the date of notification in the Government Gazette of the granting of the extension of the term of the lease, enclose the land with a shark-proof fence, and maintain such fence in efficient repair throughout the currency of the lease. (f) A breach of any of the conditions, or the occurrence of any indecent or disorderly conduct, will render the lease liable to forfeiture. EXTENSION OF TERMS OF SPECIAL LEASES. (1917, November 2). Government Gazette of the State of New South Wales (Sydney, NSW : 1901 - 2001), p. 5968. Retrieved from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article227328341 

The Phoenix and the SS Eringhi also made regular trips to the Palm Beach wharf. The Phoenix was a wooden screw steamer of 46 tons, Length 68.2 ft or 20.7 metres. She was built  in 1903 at Newcastle by William Sangford and seems to be the only vessel registered as built by him on records at present. A screw steamer or screw steamship is powered by a steam engine, using one or more propellers, also known as ‘screws’, to propel it through the water. The term is usually used to differentiate these vessels from paddle steamers, an earlier form of steamship that was mostly superseded by the screw steamer. Her life in Pittwater and the Hawkesbury seems to begin at the end of World War I.

The s.s. Erringhi is now being run by the 'Charlotte Fenwick' syndicate, with Captain Archie Jurd in command. The 'remains' of the 'Charlotte Fenwick' were towed to Brooklyn last week. Week to Week. (1920, June 11). Windsor and Richmond Gazette (NSW : 1888 - 1954), p. 4. Retrieved from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article85878505

The very next day another accident occurred;

STEAMER ERRINGHI STRIKES BARRANJOEY ROCKS. On one of her usual trips from the Hawkesbury River to Sydney the coasting steamer Erringhi struck Warner's Rock, near Barranjoey during the early hours of yesterday morning. Later in the day another river steamer, the Kallawatta, succeeded in dragging the Erringhi off, and towing her to the Jetty at Palm Beach. Captain Jurd, the master of the Erringhi, stated that hazy conditions prevailed when the Erringhi commenced her voyage This probably accounted for the vessel losing her course and striking the rock. The Barrenjoey lighthouse-keeper discovered the plight of the Erringhi, but in answer to a question Captain Jurd reported that the crew were in no immediate danger. The sea was calm Between 9 and 10 o'clock the Kallawatta arrived. Some of the Erringhi's cargo was jettisoned, and shortly before 8 o'clock she was towed off into deep water, and afterwards to Palm Beach. An examination revealed the fact that the damage was not extensive. The timbers of the vessel had been strained by contact with the rocks sufficient to cause a leakage. At low tide this morning an attempt will be made to effect temporary repairs, and it is hoped that the vessel will resume her voyage at 7 o'clock or shortly afterwards.
The Erringhi is a wooden vessel of 96 tons, built In 1907 at Clarence Town. Her principal dimensions are - Length, 101ft,' breadth, 21ft, and depth 7.5ft.  She is owned by a syndicate, who suffered the loss of the coaster Charlotte Fenwick by fire a few weeks ago and replaced that steamer by the Erringhi. The vessel is insured with the United Insurance Company for £3589.
STEAMER ERRINGHI. (1920, June 12). The Sydney Morning Herald (NSW : 1842 - 1954), p. 13. Retrieved from
http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article15893744

This image depicts the Hawkesbury Steam Navigation Company's ferry SS ERRINGHI at Brooklyn on the Hawkesbury River. ERRINGHI was purchased by the company in 1912, by the syndicate Captain Jurd was part of in June 1920 and traded on the Hawkesbury River up to the late 1930s. The vessel was scuttled off Sydney Heads in 1951. Image no 20579 courtesy Australian National Maritime Museum and by Samuel Hood.


The Phoenix pulling into Palm Beach wharf, pre 1931 - circa 1925, from John Cowper's family albums. 

Above and Below: Gow's Store in its early days courtesy Peter Verrills


PB Wharf – sections from panorama; note this shows a ferry-launch with a flag stating 'Palm Beach Ferry'.









EB Studios (Sydney, N.S.W.). (circa 1917). Panorama of Palm Beach, Pittwater, New South Wales Retrieved from http://nla.gov.au/nla.obj-162376896 - Section from (at far left) - shows Albert Verrills home, structure beside it is original Barrenjoey House. On the hill above them can be seen the The Maitland home, built by the Verrills - at base the road leading from Sandy point to Snapperman beach.

EB Studios (Sydney, N.S.W.). (circa 1917-1922). Panorama of Palm Beach and Pittwater, New South Wales Retrieved from http://nla.gov.au/nla.obj-162483141 


Barrenjoey Road, Pittwater Park prior to being resumed and named as such and Palm Beach Wharf - with Pool or 'bathing-place' area shown, circa 1917. Gow-Gonsalves-Verrills family photo

'Barranjoey House' circa 1917-18 - a Verrills family photo - this is the site of the original Barrenjoey House owned by the Verrills family

'Barrenjoey House' circa 1920 - courtesy Gow-Gonsalves-Verrills families and Avalon Beach Historical Society

In these 1925 State Government photos you can see Barrenjoey House has changed to a white cement façade and a larger structure:


Palm Beach showing wharf in centre of picture, 1925. Item: FL4900302, courtesy NSW Records and Archives


View from road to Barrenjoey, Lion Island on left - From NSW Government Printer series Palm Beach views 1925. Item: FL3839467 courtesy NSW Records and Archives


View over Snapperman in 1925 from Barrenjoey Road. Item: FL3839120, courtesy NSW Records and Archives

Milton Kent aerial views of Palm Beach, circa 1923-26, Item: SLNSW_FL8807315, courtesy State Library of NSW

'Barranejoy House' circa 1925 - photo courtesy Avalon Beach Historical Society - note the castellated roofline

EB Studios (Sydney, N.S.W.). (1917-1927). Panorama of Palm Beach, New South Wales, 12 Retrieved from http://nla.gov.au/nla.obj-162488494 - and enlarged parts from - the same section of road a few years on when new Barrenjoey House was built (and also then originally called 'Barranjoey' House) as well as the section leading south towards Sandy Point and where the RSL now is. Courtesy National Library of Australia


Enlarged section from EB Studios (Sydney, N.S.W.). (1917-1925). Panorama of Palm Beach, New South Wales, 12 Retrieved from http://nla.gov.au/nla.obj-162488494 - with Barranjoey House 

Two women and a man, on the way down the road to Barrenjoey House: 1926-29. Courtesy Pittwater Library Local Studies Collection at Mona Vale Library

Barrenjoey House circa 1933, courtesy Avalon Beach Historical Society


Palm Beach Public wharf and Pittwater Park circa 1938 from beside Barrenjoey House. Milton-Crowley Family records state Mr Crowley was allowed to form a vegetable garden in the land behind Barrenjoey House and did so for a few years, which is the aspect from which this image has been taken. The Norfolk pines are already in place.

Barrenjoey House circa 1941 - new signage on side of building and awnings over windows

Snapperman Beach and Barrenjoey House plane on beach 1930-40s - PON Editors postcard

Gows-Gonsalves boatshed when bunker/garage boatshed added to front

Recorded in the WSC Meeting held on 2nd of August 1938:

By Cr. Hitchcock; Could a letter be sent to Mr. Gow asking what his intentions are in regard to the old Palm Beach wharf? Could I have an estimate of the cost of scooping an area at Palm Beach for parking purposes? The President replied that the Engineer would be instructed to meet Cr. Hitchcock on the ground in order that he could point out what he desires.

During the WSC Meeting held on 16th of August 1938:  

40. Department of Works & Local Government, 3/8/38, advising that in connection with the construction of a road from Church Point to McCarr's Creek it was necessary to demolish the brick lavatories at Church Point, that the bricks are at the site, and a local resident has made an offer of £1 for them, inquiring whether such offer is acceptable to the Council. Resolved, - That the Works Committee arrange an inspection as an urgent matter, with a view of arrangement of the erection of fresh lavatories to meet the Present need, (Cr. Lathem) that the matter of whether the bricks should be removed or not be left to the President to decide. 35. James Wheeler,..per, complaints regarding the notice served upon him by the Council in reference to drainage matters at No. 15 Waterloo Street, Narrabeen. Resolved, - That this matter be dealt with in Committee. 36. Main Roads Department, 9/8/38, re representations made by the Narrabeen Progress Association for widening of Narrabeen Bridge, Pittwater Road, stating that Department considers the risk of accidents would be lessened if a second footway Bridge approximately 4 – 6’’; wide were placed on the western side of the bridge at an approximate cost of £178, inquiring whether the Council is willing to bear half the cost. Resolved, - That the Department be requested to make a new bridge across the lagoon. (Crs. Nicholas, Butcher)  38. Percy C. Spender, M.H.R., 8/8/38, supplying information regarding the lease granted by. the Commonwealth Government to F. J. Terry of an area of about 70 acres, comprising part of the defence and Lighthouse Reserve at Barrenjoey. Resolved, - ____ That a copy of Mr. Spender's letter and of the conditions of the lease be sent to each Councillor.  41. N.V.Menlove, Solicitor, 9/8/38, applying for a Certificate of Compliance under Section 317, Local Government not, in respect to the residence ‘Koorawathe', owned by Mrs. Mary Larkin, and situated on Lot, 50, D.P. 7794, Beach Parade, Clareville. Resolved, - That a Certificate of Compliance be granted as requested. (Crs. Campbell, Nicholas) The following questions, submitted without notice by the Councillors made, were answered by the President in the affirmative unless otherwise stated. Palm Bch. By Cr. Hitchcock - There are three or four moorings which block Wharf the access to the Palm Beach wharf: Could an investigation be made regarding them? 

October 11th 1938

45. A. Hope, 5/10/38, requesting permission to lop some gum trees on the reserve in front of his property at Taylor's Pt. Road which obstruct the view of Pittwater. The Overseer's recommendation that permission be refused was adopted. P. C. Spender, 3/10/38, objecting to the erection and position of an outhouse on land in front of his house at Ralston Road, Palm Beach. The Inspector's report that no nuisance existed in regard to the earth closet was adopted . 49. Land Board. Office, 4/10/38, re Permissive Occupancies at Church Point which were terminated on account of the construction of the new road along the foreshores of McCarr's Creek, explaining what is being done in regard to granting fresh occupancies in lieu of these, and stating Council's wishes are being observed in connection with applications for new Permissive Occupancies. ;Received.; 50. Petition from17 residents and ratepayers that the Public Works Department be asked to retain ;the original position of the steps which serve zs an entrance to the public wharf at Brown's Bay along the Church Point-Pymble Road now under construction;, stating that the suggested new entrance would be most inconvenient. 51. G. Bushnell, 4/10/38, making similar request, stating he is a boat-shed proprietor at Brown's Bay, and that during the past six months he has been deprived of his business. 51a. E. McClelland, 10/10/38, protesting similarly against removal of entrance to steps to the water at Brown's Bay. Referred to the Works Committee.  48. Newport Bowling Club, 4/10/38, requesting permission for a deputation from the Club to wait upon the Council for the Newport purpose of discussing the matter of the construction of a Bowling green at Newport. Resolved, - That a deputation from Green the Club be heard for a short time at next Finance Committee meeting. 

The WSC Meeting held on 20th December 1938 records:

2. Lands Department, 7/12/38, replying that it offers no objection to the leasing of the old wharf at Palm Beach to Mr. C.B.Gow, provided he undertakes to repair and keep it in good order and allow the public free use of it at all times. Resolved, - That the Council agree to the lease to Mr. Gow, provided he first places the wharf in good order to the Shire Engineer's satisfaction.

The old or even a new Palm Beach Public Wharf at the old site, and surrounds, were used as a feature for this Jantzen swimming costumes fashion shoot at Palm Beach, with the images taken on 25 March 1940 / photographed by Grimes - photos courtesy State Library of NSW. By the look of the poles in the second photo down, Carl Gow and the Gonsalves or the council have only recently done repairs or just installed these:




In the above photo you can see the fairly brand new Palm Beach Public Wharf in the background. Along with the shelter shed at the end of the walkway you can see other structures have been erected.

And then, all of a sudden, the new Palm Beach Public Wharf disappears from the landscape and one further north, near the Gow-Gonsalves bunker style boatshed appears in this photo dated by the National Library of Australia as 1945, while the following year the lease application by the council for use of crown waters has changed:

Searle, E. W. (1920). Barrenjoey Head and Palm Beach, New South Wales, ca. 1945, 1 Retrieved from http://nla.gov.au/nla.obj-141893634 - nla.obj-141893634-1 - section from to show 1938 built Palm Beach Public wharf is gone and only that near Gow's-Gonsalves remains: 

Parish Narrabeen, county Cumberland; Special Lease 46-537, Metropolitan, for a boatshed, slip and jetty. Land applied for—about 80 feet by 80 feet, partly below high-water mark of Palm Beach, Pittwater, fronting Recreation Reserve 61,1401, notified 17th May, 1929. Applicant—The Warringah Shire Council. Objections may be lodged at the Land Board Office, Sydney. (8623) APPLICATIONS FOR LEASES FOR SPECIAL PURPOSES. (1946, October 25). Government Gazette of the State of New South Wales (Sydney, NSW : 1901 - 2001), p. 2451. Retrieved from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article224793932

Snapperman Reserve
When Charles Forssberg passed away in 1921 his children wanted to being the rest of that acreage onto the property market. Land was measured for subdivision and lithographs drawn up, and sales advertised.

Concerns about the public’s permanent access to Pittwater commenced as soon as advertisements, lithographs and the May 1922 Real Property Act Notice appeared for the Pittwater estuary side of the Forssberg holdings. The court cases which ensued were focussed on permission having been granted by the then Warringah Shire Council to proceed being revoked are still cited in similar cases. However, threaded through that are the council's own records and a determination to ensure parks, reserves and access to the estuary was established permanently through the dedication to council of those lands by their owners and their objections to some of the sections required. There was also at least one gentleman who did not want his lot to be resumed, this was Lot 10 of the 10 lots that comprise present day Pittwater Park.

Ultimately this resulted in the establishment of a 30 feet deep 520 feet long section of public recreation space to the shoreline at Sandy Point (Sand Point) as well as lane access to this, and the just over one acre of Iluka Park, and the establishment of Pittwater Park of 1.4 hectares, next to the Palm Beach ferry wharf and on Snapperman Beach, and access to a reserve on the south end of Snapperman Beach itself, again a 33.9 feet deep by 320 feet length of reserve to the shoreline for the public to have access, permanently, to the estuary and its beach. The range of homes built right onto Snapperman Beach at the south end is a visual reminder of what could have occurred right along this stretch, effectively locking out every subsequent generation except during low tides. 

Woorak Reserve, although a later addition, is also part of this whole package of interlinked green spaces and estuary frontage reserves. This 0.3297 hectares, comprising Lots 68, 69, 70, 71 and 72 in DP 14682,  was exchanged by council by giving Stuart St, Newport (closed road at Newport PS) for the Department of Education’s five land parcels constituting Woorak Reserve. These five lots are not the same as those lands resumed by the government to establish the Barrenjoey School - that lot was later sold off to the Barrenjoey Company.

Likewise the 1 rood 21 1/4 perches dedicated on October 21st 1960 for a War Memorial Kindergarten (Palm Beach Kindy), a section that came from Iluka Park, is also a separate part of these lands given over to education.

By the time all the resumptions and dedications had been made the Forssberg family were only selling 27 acres of the original 31 acres, 2 roods and 9 3/4 perches their father had originally bought.



The original subdivision of the 31 acres purchased by Forssberg in 1900, showing the block bought by the Barrenjoey Company splitting the estate in two. Source: Land Titles Office Vol 3429 - Folio 234

Enlarged section from EB Studios (Sydney, N.S.W.). (1917). Panorama of Palm Beach, New South Wales, 12 Retrieved from http://nla.gov.au/nla.obj-162488494 - end of Sunrise view with Barranjoey House tucked into – and shows Fossberg lands – view towards Sand Point, Taylors Point (Careel Bay) in background and Snapperman beach end

Snapperman Beach Reserve was dedicated as a Public Recreation Area (Certificate of Title - Volume 4061 Folio 122) and transferred to the then Warringah Council on October 5th 1927. It was then transferred into Pittwater Council’s name on 8 August 2000.






By October 1927. Volume 4061 Folio 122, sourced from HRLV, NSW Land Titles Office

Access to the Reserve is via a laneway six (6) metres wide off Iluka Road between numbers 100 and 102 Iluka Road, Palm Beach. Pittwater Council owned the land in Fee Simple. The adjoining land on the eastern boundary is residential (Lots 12 – 18 DP 12979). The land to the west is the foreshore transition zone to the Pittwater estuary , being unreserved Crown land. At the present time the recognised boundary between the Reserve and Crown Land remains ‘High Water Mark ’ as per D P 12979.

Snapperman Beach Reserve is classified as community land, which means that it is intended to be managed for use by the community and may not be leased for more than 21 years and cannot be sold.  Snapperman Beach Reserve is a narrow rectangular strip of land (approximately nine (9) metres wide and one hundred and two (102) metres long). The Reserve contains open manicured lawn, the two large Screw Pines (Pandanus tectorius ), a park bench, reserve signage and a seawall.

The western front of the reserve is a sandy beach and the waters of Pittwater and the remaining s ides are bound by residential properties. It has a predominantly open and relaxed character and natural beauty. This is highly valued by the local community. 

In a report prepared by the Royal Botanic Gardens for the Pittwater Council 2006 POM, the Screw Pines were identified as extraordinary species because they are extremely large specimens in the Sydney area and because they are a pair, one male and one female. 


Screw Pines (Pandanus tectorius) on Snapperman Reserve - 2012

Unfortunately a new home owner seemed unaware these plants were on a public reserve and protected and cut away many of the sections you see in the above photo. A Winter 2026 visit to the site shows they are now recovering, just:

photo taken July 28 2026

Retaining Walls
In 1936 the Warringah Shire Council advertised its intention to install a retaining wall along this section of waterfrontage -given the cost for erecting the same at Bilgola Beach is just one tenth the price, the wall, even though it cannot be seen in aerials until much later on, must have been quite long - or is that now present at Snapperman Beach Reserve as well as that fronting Pittwater Park near the public wharf:

SHIRE OF WARRINGAH.
Special Loan, £21,000—"A'' Riding.
(a) In Palm Beach-Whale Beach District: £
Public Reserve on shore of Pittwater, Palm Beach — Filling, levelling, and construction of retaining wall 1,000 
Bilgola Beach Reserve—Construction of retaining wall 100 
8. Within one month of the date of the publication of this notice any number not less than twenty-five per centum (25%) of the ratepayers enrolled for "A" Riding may petition the Council to take a poll of the ratepayers, either as to whether the ratepayers approve of the loan or as to whether the loan rate shall be on the unimproved capital value or improved capital value, or on both questions. The number of ratepayers on the Roll of Electors for "A"' Riding is 5,421.
A. H. HUGHES, President. R. G. Jamieson, Shire Clerk.
Shire Hall, Brookvale, 20th July, 1936.  358 £7 10s. SHIRE OF WARRINGAH. (1936, July 24). Government Gazette of the State of New South Wales (Sydney, NSW : 1901 - 2001), p. 3236. Retrieved from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article223038435 


Snapperman reserve retaining wall and filled in raised area - showing original (plank) retaining wall to the right and sandstone wall to the left - this photo was taken during long wait for repairs from 2020/21 storms and floods

July 2016 repairs to Pittwater Park stone retaining wall post June 2016 storms


Further works including a retaining wall and car parking at Palm Beach for visitors were levied on then residents of Pittwater in 1949:

WARRINGAH SHIRE COUNCIL—Special Loan of £16,500.
—The Council of the Shire of Warringah hereby notifies in pursuance of section 380 of the Local Government Act, 1919, that:—
(1) The Council proposes to raise a special loan of sixteen thousand live hundred pounds (£16,500) for the following purposes in connection with parks and reserves in the Shire:—
£
Palm Beach—Retaining wall and additional parking space 3,500 ...
(6) A period of one month from the date of the publication of this notice is allowed in which any number of ratepayers, not less than 25r/c, may petition the Council to take a poll of ratepayers on the question as to whether the ratepayers approve of the loan. The number of ratepayers on the roll is 21,130. 
W. U. GORS, Shire Clerk, Shire Hall, Brookvale, 29th April, 1949. WARRINGAH SHIRE COUNCIL.—SPECIAL LOAN OF £16,500. (1949, May 6). Government Gazette of the State of New South Wales (Sydney, NSW : 1901 - 2001), p. 1338. Retrieved from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article224789421 

Goddard's Wharf
Among early purchasers of land in the sales of the Forssberg estate were the Goddard family who bought land on today's Iluka road. They had been at the south end of Waratah street at Palm Beach prior to that, building boats and larger craft such as ferries, prior to this, and would carry forward this when they moved to Iluka road. 

Bill Goddard's insights shared some of this history and his photos show the slips and jetty the Goddard's built changing the foreshore views from Observation Point along Snapperman Beach. The Goddard's wharf would also be used for ferry services to  The Basin and around Pittwatre, especially during the period when the then Warringah Shire Council were building the Palm Beach Public Wharf just south of what was the Barrenjoey Land Co wharf and what we today call the Gonsalves-Gow jetty.



In 1932 William Goddard commenced a regular ferry service to the western foreshores of Pittwater, running from Palm Beach to Coasters Retreat, The Basin, Stiles’ Wharf at Little Mackerel Beach and Great Mackerel Beach Wharf.


Observation Point and view south to Snapperman Beach, Pittwater - showing buildings on Iluka at Palm Beach, circa 1936 - note the double-decker bus and tar on the road now and electricity poles along with refurbished Barrenjoey House over the hill facing Snapperman. Photo: Goddard family photos

Below images  from Album 'Palm Beach, 6 January 1938 / photographed by Ray Olson', courtesy Mitchell Library, State Library of New South Wales and Courtesy ACP Magazines Ltd. Some of these images appeared in Pix magazine's first ever Issue. 


 A few more of same location from same album:



You can see the entrance to The Basin in the distance behind these Summer holidaymakers - and here are some who have hired a dinghy to 'muck about in boats' on Snapperman beach - from the same album, but dated January 5 1939 - and one of the sailing craft on the estuary then as well, with that photo dated January 6 1938:


Pittwater regattas were also run, attracting hordes of visitors to the estuary, with some positioned off Goddard's' wharf as  marker there for the 'plane exhibitions aspects of the regattas during the 1930's included those pilots rounding that marker.

A feature of the regatta will be an Aerial Derby, in which five aeroplanes of the Royal Aero Club of New South Wales will start from Mascot aerodrome at 3.15 p.m., thence race round a mark on Goddard's wharf at Palm Beach, to finish at the flagship Gloria, a distance of 28 miles. The prize for the Aerial Derby will be a silver trophy value £10/10/, presented by Mr. Chas. E. Blanks. ....MAMMOTH REGATTA AT PITTWATER (1935, December 28). The Daily Telegraph (Sydney, NSW : 1931 - 1954), p. 3. Retrieved from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article246589589

John McLaughlin's Trophy

More in: Pittwater Regatta Air Race Trophies: from 1934 and 1935 and The Pilot Who Saved William Hughes

The WSC Meeting held on November 26 1935 records a curious approval considering what it had been preceded by; near misses with planes landing on Palm Beach itself  - more of these 'incidents' and A A Barlow under 'Notes': 

Palm Beach Reserves. 20. A. A. Barlow. 11/11/35, requesting permission to use at weekends, a small portion of the beach about 300 yards north of the wharf, for joy-riding purposes with his amphibian aircraft.  20a. Vacuum Oil Co. fly. Ltd., 11/11/35, recommending granting of Mr. Barlow's application, stating his machine has proved an excellent attraction on the various beaches at Melbourne. Resolved;  That permission be granted. (Crs. Hughes, Campbell) 


Snapperman Beach Palm Beach circa 1935-1936. Postcard from PON Editors collection and held by Geoff Searl OAM, president of Avalon Beach Historical Society (ABHS). 

The plane shown here on Snapperman beach has wheels, so may not be that granted permission to conduct joy flights from that location, and could be just another 'drop in'. Research shows that Dr. Robert Gordon Craig bequeathed the block of land directly beside Pittwater Park to his daughter Ailsa Craig-Brown and that she sold that lot in 1929.

Both Ailsa and her first husband, Robert Lee Brown, had a passion for flying. Tragically he was killed in a plane accident in 1934. Ailsa later married Scotty Allen. So this plane may even be his when they lived atop this hill in what has been called The Pink House. In fact, one of her early lithographs dated 1937, as an Artist, shows an aspect of Pittwater from that hill.

Visit: George Urquhart (Scotty) Allan  and: Pittwater Summer Houses: The Cabin, Palm Beach - The Pink House Of The Craig Family

Geoff's copy is a little clearer:



Palm Beach Public wharf and Pittwater Park circa 1938 from beside Barrenjoey House when this building had a castellated roofline. Milton-Crowley Family records state Mr Crowley was allowed to form a vegetable garden in the land behind Barrenjoey House and did so for a few years, which is the aspect from which this image has been taken. The Norfolk pines are already in place.Milton Kent aerial views of Avalon, Bronte, Palm Beach and Sydney, ca. 1931-1935 (must be post-1938 as the new Palm Beach public wharf can be seen – along with Goddard’s wharf) and sections from. Items; SLNSW_FL20059969 and SLNSW_FL8804640, courtesy State Library of New South Wales:





Meanwhile, down the road, the Council Meeting of 19th of July 1938:

28. J. L. Sleeman, 2/7/38 complaining that the views from cottages in Forssberg Estate, Palm Beach, have been spoiled by the construction by Mr. Goddard of another wharf and lavatories across the beach, and requesting, Council to take action in the matter. Resolved, - That a copy of the Inspector's report be sent to the writer. (Cr. Latham, Cr. Campbell).


View from the water of Goddard's Boat Shed at 118 Iluka Road, Palm Beach - About 1939-40


On Snapperman Beach in late 1930's - early 1940's. Photo: Verrills and Goddard Family Albums - below shows the view south along Snapperman during the 1930's-1940's towards Goddard's wharf - with the second one showing Gow-Gonsalves jetty and the Palm Beach Public wharf

In 1941 Goddards sold their business to the Port Jackson & Manly Steamship Company. Included in the sale were a general store with a liquor licence, marine repair facilities and ferries. The general store which could sell alcohol was a first at Palm Beach and was run by William’s wife Ada. 

Also included was a small motor launch “Falcon” (which was later known as “Elvina”) built by William in 1928 (and later sold to the Church Point Ferry Service). “Elvina” provided a very important service to the people of Pittwater at the time, delivering supplies and mail. She is the longest serving passenger ferry in NSW and still comes out for service when needed. She is currently moored over near Lovett Bay, owned and run by the Church Point Ferry Service.

The Goddard's wharf was removed from the site it was on around the corner to Sand Point.

See: Goldthorpe & Smith Boatshed Becomes Port Jackson & Manly Steamship's Palm Beach Marine Service: Palm Beach Boatsheds 

Further 'old wharf' records:

Reporting that the old structure of Palm Beach Wharf Beach should be demolished: Resolved - That Mr. C.B. Gow  be given two months in which to complete the restoration work to the Shire engineer’s satisfaction. (Crs. Latham, Savage) 24/1/1939

Reporting that Mr. Gow has ceased his improvement operations on the old public wharf at Palm Beach: Resolved, That Mr. Gow be required to finish the whole of the work within two months. (Crs. Butcher, Campbell) 11/7/1949

Gow  & Gonsalves, 12/7/52, drawing attention to the state of the Council's wharf adjacent to Gow's boatshed and suggesting that it be repaired or demolished, but if the Council is not prepared to do this, stating that they are prepared to take over the structure. Resolved: that this wharf be demolished (Crs. McKay and Berry).

C. B. Gow, 18/9/52, regarding the old wharf at Palm Beach, contending that it would be more expedient to re-build the old wharf than to demolish it, pointing out that a wharf has been at this site for about 40 years, and is greatly used by local residents; and stating that he would be prepared to build and maintain a new wharf or pull the old one down. 22. Resolved, - That he be informed that Council adheres to its previous decision, and the Engineer be instructed to demolish this wharf at. the earliest possible Opportunity.- (Crs. McKay, Berry)

CARRIED. (b) Cr. Berry moved, Cr. McKay seconding, that the decision of 21/7/52 to demolish Mr. C.B. Gow's wharf at Palm Beach be rescinded, and he be allowed to rebuild the wharf at his own expense and that the Council be relieved of any legal responsibility as to the management of this wharf. Cr. Horn moved as an amendment, Cr. Quinlan seconding, that this matter be referred to the Finance & General Purposes Committee, with a report by the Shire Engineer and Legal Officer, and in the meantime Mr. Gow  be asked to confer with the Engineer and submit a proposal as to what he is prepared to do to reinstate the wharf to good condition, and the terms under which he desires to be allowed to use the wharf. The amendment was carried, and on becoming the motion, was again carried. (c) Cr. McKay moved, Cr. Berry seconding 30/3/1953

'Pittwater' Palm Beach, 1945. Item: FL3735011, courtesy NSW State Records and Archives

Iluka sections from 1940's aerial

Caroline H - Frank Gonsalves fishing boat at Palm Beach Public wharf; which is where fish were offloaded until the council stopped this

Goddard's sandbank-wharf location from halfway up hill to Observation Point in 2013, Photo: AJ Guesdon/PON

Tom Gilbert (in middle) atop Carl Gow's/Gonsalves Boatshed, 1949. Annual fundraisers were held in the park near the ferry wharf to raise funds to support the Randwick Hospital with the Carl Gow/Gonsalves Boatshed put into use as the 'Beer House'. This became an annual event: HOSPITAL BENEFIT AT PALM BEACH. The Randwick Auxiliary Hospital will benefit from a deep sea fishing and sporting day at Palm Beach tomorrow. Professional fishermen operating from Palm Beach and private owners are providing the trawlers. HOSPITAL BENEFIT AT PALM BEACH. (1950, March 18). The Sydney Morning Herald (NSW : 1842 - 1954), p. 5. Retrieved from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article27575067

 Above and below: Gonsalves Boatshed January 2013 and the Jetty below Observation Point.


Pittwater Park
Local lore states what we now call Pittwater Park, beside the current ferry wharf for Palm Beach, stems from a bet between old Carl Gow and Cr. Hitchcock of Warringah Council (for whom Hitchcock Park at Careel Bay is named); the bet being the Councillor could not get it gazetted as a park which he did, Carl having to hand over £100 for losing. That bet may be the reason Cr. Hitchcock's name appears so often in fighting for these Reserves in Warringah Shire Council records. Those who knew Carl state the bet was a ruse as this land was obviously slated for development prior to then. 

However, the land itself was resumed from the Forssberg estate. This Park was Gazetted 21/1/1927, finalised  23.9.1927. The Government Gazette Notice provides:

NOTIFICATION OF RESUMPTION OF LAND  UNDER THE PUBLIC WORKS ACT, 1912.

IT is hereby notified and declared by His Excellency the Governor, acting with the advice of the Executive Council, that so much of the land hereunder described as is Crown Land has been appropriated, and so much thereof as is private property has been resumed under the Public Works Act, 1912, for the following public purpose, namely, for the establishment of a Public Recreation Ground at Palm Beach, and is vested in the Minister for Lands as Constructing Authority on behalf of His Majesty. [Misc. 1926-13,363]

Signed and sealed at Sydney, this twenty-first day of January, 1927.

( i,s.) D. R. S.de CHAIR,  Governor.

By His Excellency's Command,

W. F. DUNN, Assistant Minister for Lands.

GOD SAVE the KING!

Description.

All that piece or parcel of land situate in the parish of Narrabeen, county of Cumberland, and State of New South Wales, containing an area of 1 acre 1 rood 17 1/2 perches: Commencing at the high-water mark of Pittwater at the north-western corner of lot 11 of section A of the Forssberg Estate,—as shown on d.p. 12,979; and bounded thence on the south by the northern boundary of that lot bearing 90 degrees 57 minutes for 152 feet to the western side of Barranjoey-road; thence on the east by that side of that road bearing 8 degrees 53 minutes 30 seconds for 278 feet 6| inches and 350 degrees 49 minutes for 126 feet inches; thence on the north by a line bearing 270 degree's 57 minutes for 143 feet to high-water mark, Pittwater, aforesaid; thence on the west by that high-water mark generally southerly, to the point of commencement, and being lots 1 to 10 inclusive, of the Forssberg Estate,—as shown on d.p. 12,979, and being also part of freehold portion 18 of 400 acres.  NOTIFICATION OF RESUMPTION OF LAND UNDER THE PUBLIC WORKS ACT, 1912. (1927, January 21). Government Gazette of the State of New South Wales (Sydney, NSW : 1901 - 2001), p. 418. Retrieved from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article220227921

Pittwater Park confirmed

PROCLAMATION
For Public Recreation.

Metropolitan Land District, and Warringah Shire.

No. 60,988. County of Cumberland, parish of Narrabeen, containing an area of about 2 acres 1 rood 12 1/2 perches. The Crown Lands within the following boundaries: Commencing at a point on the high-water mark of Pittwater at the north-western corner of lot 11, section A, deposited plan 12,979; and bounded thence by the northern boundary of that lot Rearing 90 degrees 57 minutes 152 feet; thence by the western side of Barrenjoey-road, being lines bearing 8 degrees 53 minutes 30 seconds 278 feet 6 /4 inches and 350 degrees 49 minutes 486 feet 5 3/4 inches; thence by the south-eastern boundary of lot 10A of deposited plan 13,374, and end of road of variable width, being a line bearing 243 degrees 20 minutes 132 feet to the high-water mark of Pittwater; thence by that high-water mark of Pittwater- generally southerly, to the point of commencement, comprising lots 1 to 10 inclusive, deposited plan 12,979, and the unsubdivided balance of lot 32 of the Bassett Darley Estate. [Us. 1927-9,366] RESERVES FROM SALE. (1929, February 22). Government Gazette of the State of New South Wales (Sydney, NSW : 1901 - 2001), p. 1016. Retrieved from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article223989484

Also worth noting:

LOCAL GOVERNMENT ACT, 1919.
PROCLAMATION. (L-S.)
W. P. CULLEN, Lieutenant-Governor. 9th October, 1928
.

I Sir William Portus Cullen, the Lieutenant-Governor of the State of New South Wales, with the advice of the Executive Council, in pursuance of the Local Government Act, 1919, do hereby declare the wharf described in the Schedule hereto to be a public wharf and vest the control thereof in the Warringah Shire Council.

[L.G. 1928-60,933] By His Excellency's Command, MICHAEL F. BRUXNER, GOD SAVE THE KING!

Schedule.

The wharf constructed of timber on piles about 165 feet by about 6 feet together with appurtenances, situated on the northern end of Snapperman Beach of Pittwater, Broken Bay, in the parish of Narrabeen, county of Cumberland, and having an area of about 3 1/2 perches (shown on a plan catalogued Ms. 3,609 Sy., in the Department of Lands, Sydney). *[1760]. LOCAL GOVERNMENT ACT, 1919. (1928, October 19). Government Gazette of the State of New South Wales (Sydney, NSW : 1901 - 2001), p. 4563. Retrieved from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article220372991

THE FORESHORES.
RESUMPTIONS BY WARRINGAH.
SPLENDID RECORD.

During the past five years the ratepayers of Warringah Shire have paid £50,790 of the £68,956 authorised for the purchase of fore-shores and reserves.

The principal resumptions and their costs are:- Newport Beach reserve, £9600; Newport reserve, for access to Pittwater, £2200; Mona Vale Beach, £2800; Palm Beach, £4500; Lake Park extension, Narrabeen, £1900; Collaroy Beach reserve, £18,050, Deewhy Beach reserve extension, £2000; district park, £9500, Manly Municipal Council contributing a similar amount in respect of the last-mentioned purchase.

The matter was referred to the council meeting by the shire clerk (Mr. R. G. Jamie-son), who stated that probably no other council in New South Wales could show such a fine record.

The president (Councillor Corkery) said that they could not be expected to go on burdening the ratepayers in that way indefinitely. The beaches were used by people who came in their thousands from all parts, and the acquisition of places of access, in his opinion, should be a national work. THE FORESHORES. (1929, August 9). The Sydney Morning Herald (NSW : 1842 - 1954), p. 12. Retrieved from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article16574253 

Historical notes on the Palm Beach Whale Beach Association, along with those kept in Warringah Shire Council records, show that the 1930's named 'Progress Association' first suggested a name for the park opposite Barrenjoey House, the then Warringah Shire Council records show:

Palm Beach Progress Assoc., (letter dated 14/3/35), pointing out that the absence of a notice bearing the name "Palm Beach" on the public wharf is the cause of uncertainty and inconvenience to visitors by launch; (b) on the necessity for a name for the reserve opposite Barrenjoey House, suggesting the name “Pittwater Reserve”; (c) pointing out the need for repairing and widening Palm Beach Road to render it less dangerous; (d) expressing the opinion that the building of a concrete retaining wall on the ocean beach reserve would detract from the appearance of the beach. Council's decisions were that a notice be erected as requested; and that the name Pittwater Reserve be adopted. (Per Crs. Hewitt, Austin); 


Searle, E. W. (1939). Aerial view of Palm Beach, Broken Bay, New South Wales, and enlarged section from circa. 1939 Retrieved February from http://nla.gov.au/nla.obj-142054890


Hurley, Frank. (1910). Palm Beach good general [looking north from Pittwater side circa 1950 - enlarged section from showing just planted Norfolk pines growing] [Sydney, New South Wales, Aerial] Retrieved from http://nla.gov.au/nla.obj-158828473

Looking north along Snapperman Beach in 1950's


Barrenjoey House and the park opposite approx. 60 years ago (1960's), my great grandfather and my mum in the pics - photos courtesy Jenny Dixon, shared on social media platform - a few more also showing 'Pittwater Park':
View across road to 'Pittwater Park' - the Norfolk pines have grown


The Pittwater Park Draft Plan of Management (2002 – Pittwater Council) states on page 11: 

Pittwater Park is Crown Land administered by the NSW Department of Land and Water Conservation. It is designated as Crown Reserve No.R60988.

Pittwater Council was appointed manager of the “Pittwater Park (R60988) Reserve Trust” on 20th September 1996.’

Page 37-38, under ‘Objectives for Management’ lists:

'To protect and enhance the heritage landscape values of Pittwater Park through proper arboricultural management of the existing Norfolk Island Pines on the site;’

Page 41-42:

The heritage significance of the Park comes from the heritage listed row of Norfolk Island Pines on the southern foreshore area. This species constitutes a significant component of the cultural landscape of Pittwater and an important visual element of Pittwater Park. The Pines are to be retained and managed for their long term health. Replacement planting should be included as a component of the management of the tree group. Opportunities for judicial additional planting of the species on the reserve should be explored in the masterplanning process.’

Under Desired outcomes (page 43):

  • Retention of the existing landscape character and continued improvement in the quality of the landscape resulting in a unified and attractive setting for the range of recreational opportunities offered by Pittwater Park. 
  • The heritage listed row of Norfolk Island Pines is properly managed for its continued vigour and contribution to local landscape quality. 
  • The broad views of Pittwater are retained and preserved in the ongoing development of the Park. 
  • Reduction in the dominance of carparking as a visual element in the park
Snapperman Beach and Pittwater Park, Pittwater - families picnicking - June 2020 

Winter 2026 photos of Snapperman Beach, Pittwater: